It is a race against time, runs the modern adage. Indeed, in the age where progress is often measured by expeditious performance, speed has seemingly become an obsession and an ever-shifting goal. For Pre-Fall 2022 collection, David Koma embarks on a journey, exploring racing and motorsport as a symbol of the speed of our times.
In a contemporary study of the uniform of the female racers, David Koma looks to pioneering women of motorsport, Adeline and Augusta Van Buren. The notorious sisters became the first females to traverse the USA on solo motorbikes in 1916, while campaigning for women’s suffrage, despite their frequent arrests for wearing ‘scandalous’ leather riding breeches.
Concepts of danger and need of protection intertwine to create an ultimate wardrobe for a modern biker girl, fusing David Koma’s take on authentic racing garments with painstaking craftsmanship native to haute couture.
In a nod to the victorious racers, leather dominates the collection. Buttery soft Napa in fiery red and carbon black appears as oversized jackets complete with 3D crystalised protective pads, and structured leggings. Tyre track-embossed leather is sliced into bandeau tops and asymmetric leather skirts. The motif, also seen as plexi embroidery, sensually curves along the high-slit hems, cutout jersey jumpsuits, and back protector-inspired tops.
Customary sponsor artwork is reimagined as branded patches across structured ribbed knitwear and as statement racing prints on vintage-inspired cotton t-shirts. Symbolising the danger often associated with speed, crystallised embroidered crocodiles appear to be moving across the female body, crawling onto the hemlines and necklines of garments.
Evoking the energy of exhaust flames, fire-printed silk satin blazes around the body creating the illusion of movement; while flame shapes are seen along the cutout décolletages of body contouring dresses. The colourful feathers make a reappearance as dark ombre plumes, signifying swift motion. Elsewhere, dynamic ombre fringe cascades down from neck and waistlines, creating the illusion of garments stained in oil.
This season, the Koma Girl is reimagined as an adrenaline-fuelled Biker Girl, ready to embark on a thrilling adventure.
Photographer: Thomas Lohr
Stylist: Marc Goehring
Casting: Svea Greichgauer
Set Designer: Tom Schneider
Models: Ajok Madel, Gia Lupei and Mao Xiaoxing
Make up artist: Patrick Glatthaar
Hair stylist: Cos Sakkas and Efi Davies, TONI&GUY
Creative Consultancy: ANCC Studio
BTS Photographer: Simonas Berukstis and Jurij Treskow
Videographers: Josha Eiffel and Zeynep Agcabay
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About David Koma:
David Koma is a London-based fashion designer who has become synonymous with the ultra body contouring silhouette, creating sculptural statement dresses inspired by the feminine form. Alongside the cocktail dresses that propelled the designer onto the international stage, David Koma offering has expanded to include full range of options from precise daywear separates to beautifully tailored outerwear and showstopping red carpet gowns.
Born in Tbilisi, Georgia, David Koma discovered his penchant for dress design at the young age of eight. David studied Fine Art in St Petersburg, showing his first collection at the age of 15. In 2003 David moved to London to take up a place at the prestigious Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design, graduating with a distinction in MA Fashion in April 2009 under the mentorship of the late Professor Louise Wilson, OBE.
Straight after graduation David Koma launched his eponymous ready-to-wear brand and has been a participant of London Fashion Week ever since.
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