How to pull off one of the most divisive pieces in your wardrobe...
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Esquire (UK)
2022-09-08T16:56:41Z
OK, so even the best men's leather jackets are divisive. We're often told that they're cool. We're
But that needn’t be the case. There’s a leather jacket for everyone and understanding the different options available (as well as the histories behind them) is the first step to finding the right piece. That’s why we’ve defined the main types – from biker to bomber and everything in between – and offered our picks for the new season from a wide range of brands. There’s some styling tips in there too.
Sure, the best leather jackets for men don’t come cheap. And taking the plunge can be a daunting experience. But follow our expert guidance, and you’ll end up investing in a wardrobe essential that will last a lifetime, moulding to your body and becoming something of a second skin (nailing that cost-per-wear ratio in the process). Without further ado, here’s everything you need to know to nail menswear’s riskiest (but most rewarding) piece.
One jacket to rule them all. Ask a child to draw a leather jacket and this is what you'll end up with.
Created by leather legend Schott NYC for Harley-Davidson in 1928, the first iteration of its kind was named the Perfecto after founder Irving Schott’s preferred cigars. With a cropped, belted body, diagonal zips, epaulettes, notch lapels and four pockets, the archetypal biker jacket still has all of these features. If it doesn't, then it's not a legit biker jacket, sorry.
It has a history. James Dean wore one. So did the Ramones. And while they pulled it off by token of youth and confidence and global fame, you can cheat your way in with the first two, and slot above plain T-shirts (grey or white, ideally) and black straight-ish leg jeans. Nobody this side of 'nu rave' should be wearing spray-on denim with a leather jacket.
If a full-blown biker jacket feels a little too Alice Cooper, the cafe racer provides a more middle-of-the-road alternative. Named after the lightweight motorcycles that soldiers would race between pubs and cafes, this leather jacket is a stripped-back take that does away with the detailing of its American counterparts.
The clean-cut look has a touch of the bomber about it, which means the cafe racer jacket is more versatile – and more forgiving – than the biker jacket. It’s got a hint of its attitude, but wouldn't call a policeman a pig until he was out of earshot. So perfect for the man who wants to dip his toes into the world of leather jackets but needs something that’ll work across the majority of his wardrobe.
From two wheels to two wings, leather’s use as an outerwear material doesn’t end with motorcycle clothing. For a century, those who take to the skies on the regular have embraced the fabric for its ability to stave off the worst of the cold.
There are two key styles of leather flight jacket: the classic bomber and the shearling aviator. Both are boxy, for warmth and ease of movement in a cockpit, but where the bomber features a round, knitted collar, the aviator boasts one with sheepskin lining, which can be buckled up for added cosiness.
Bombers and flight jackets are best suited to men who want more from their leathers. A flight jacket looks good, but it’s also highly functional in winter weather. Team it up with cold-weather favourites like heavy selvedge denim, work boots and chunky knitwear. Avoid the temptation to add aviator sunglasses, unless you actually are Tom Cruise.
Motorbikes weren’t always ridden by rebels without a cause. In their first decades, they were the pastime of young adventurers, who’d bomb between each other’s country piles. The original British motorcycle jacket was crafted with them in mind, and has a more refined, functional design.
Championed by English outerwear institutions like Barbour and Belstaff, this quintessentially British motorcyclist jacket features four pockets to the front, ideally including an angled chest pocket for your maps, with a press-stud and zipper closure to keep the wind out and a tonal belt to the waist.
The brilliance of this style lies in its versatility. There aren’t many leather jackets that can be successfully paired with tailoring, but a Belstaff Trialmaster looks as good over a suit as it does a hoodie. For an easier way in, try it in brown leather with navy dress pants, a rollneck sweater and Chelsea boots.
A leather blazer is by no means a safe choice, but once you’ve committed to such a purchase, we all but guarantee you’ll never look back. In fact, you’ll probably keep it forever – it’s just one of those unfailing menswear hero pieces.
And since your next leather blazer purchase could p
