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In today's video, we are going to cover troubleshooting a franklin electric QD submersible well pump control box. We are going to share with you some money saving tips to test your own equipment and determine what is wrong before calling a professional.

Before we begin I want to remind everyone that working with electricity can be very dangerous especially if you are inexperienced so be sure to always use caution working with electricity and turn off power supply breakers when testing components within the electrical system. If during testing you are not 100% confident you can perform any of these tests safely call a professional.

Inside the QD control box, there are going to only be 2 or 3 main components depending on the model. The standard QD’s have 2 components, the Start Capacitor and the QD Relay. There is also a QD CRC model which also has a run capacitor. The way that the standard QD box works is the power comes in here, L1, L2, and the pump wires land here, R, Y, B and red is the start winding, yellow is the common line, black is the run winding. When the box receives power the relay sends power through the black wire (main winding) and down to the pump additionally the yellow being a for line voltage is always energized, after a fraction of a second the power running through black wire (main winding) energizes the triac within the relay which allows current to flow through the red wire (start capacitor/winding) as the motor approaches running speed, the phase angle between the start current and line current becomes nearly in phase. At this point, the triac turns off which removes voltage from the red wire and start capacitor. On the CRC boxes, everything is almost identical other than when the relay switches from the start capacitor to the run capacitor.

So let’s start by checking the capacitor or capacitors depending on your model.
Using your ohmmeter, set your meter to R x 1,000.
Place your meter leads one on either of the contactors terminals
If good, the pointer should swing toward zero, then back to infinity.
One important thing to note is that when testing the capacitors it is possible for the capacitor to test okay but may have lost some capacitance and may no longer function so be wary of these situations.
Next, we will test the QD Relay
First, we will perform what is known as the triac test:
Using your ohmmeter, set your meter to R x 1,000
Connect meter leads to Cap and B terminals
Correct meter reading: Infinity for all models
The second test we will perform is the coil test
Using your ohmmeter, set your meter to R x 1
Connect meter leads to L1 and B
Correct meter reading: Zero ohms for all models

Now that all components have been tested assuming the problem persists we will begin performing the voltage and amperage tests.

Warning: The power must be on for these tests. Do not touch any live parts.
If you are not comfortable or are inexperienced working with hot wires contact a professional.

First, ensure the motor is off.
Measure voltage at L1 and L2 of pressure switch or line contactor.
Voltage reading: Should be +/- 10% motor rating.
The second test the requires the motor be running
Measure voltage at the load side of pressure switch or line contactor with the pump running.
Voltage reading: should remain the same except for slight dip on starting. Excessive voltage drop can be caused by loose connections, bad contacts, ground faults, or inadequate power supply.
Relay chatter is caused by low voltage or ground faults

And that’s it! We have successfully tested each component within the control box. If you did not find anything wrong, it's time to test the pump and motor assuming you have already gone through the troubleshooting overview video prior to this one. If not, go back and check that video out and we can meet back up during part 4 of this series Troubleshooting the Submersible Well pump & Wire.

If you need more information or assistance with products, call 855.329.4519 or email Customer.Service@RCWorst.com to speak with an industry expert. Thanks for watching!

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