"I knew I had to either pull in or straighten out and get annihilated"
Thursday, December 28th was not pretty at Maverick’s. In fact, it was the polar opposite of what went down here on Christmas day. It was very, very large, very west and very unruly from leftover south wind bump from the night before and was a tow-only affair. A handful of slightly crazy folks got some amazing rides and equally horrifying wipeouts, but San Diego’s Jojo Roper, towed by longtime partner Jamie Mitchell, managed to (successfully) snag the wave of the day, pull in and get spit out into the channel to the hoots and screams of the dozens of equally crazy people watching from the water. (The cam was our preferred vantage point. Safer, warmer, etc.)
“The morning was massive, but it was a lot cleaner than I thought,” said Roper. “Still a lot of south wind lump — but it was doable. Jamie Mitchell was driving me all day, I was thankful for that, ’cause he knows that whole zone out there. We agreed to go for the second or third wave of a set if it’s big enough and stands up outside — and that was the third wave of the set. The thing had this big wall and a big tall presentation outside. I looked down the line — I was pretty deep and knew I had to either pull in or straighten out and get annihilated. I pulled up into it and got guided out by the spit. That was definitely the most rugged big Mav’s I’ve ever towed.”
Worth noting: Mitchell and Roper were on their way south to chase the same swell when we talked to ’em. Stand by for that score. Oh, and also worth noting: we’ve been covering the massive west swell that’s still hitting the West Coast with daily updates right here.
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Stay tuned to Surfline.com as we cover this historic swell over the coming days.
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