For our second installment of The MUNCHIES Guide to Tehran, Gelareh visits Nayeb, a white-tablecloth restaurant that's been serving up succulent kebabs in Iran for over 120 years—and even got its initial footing in the bazaar. Their signature dish, koobedih, is a spiced meat kebab dipped in onion juice and cooked over an open flame, served with rice, somagh (sour powdered sumac) butter, and raw egg.

After dining with Nayeb's fifth generation, great-great-great-great-granddaughter Sogol, Gelareh heads to the Baghe Saba Teahouse—a cultural hub akin to a Parisian salon that was once a mens-only enclave but now welcomes families. There, Gelarah is greeted by a buffet of salads, stuffed eggplant, barley soup, and every size of sabzi koofteh (Persian meatballs).

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