One of the hardest things in surfing is retraining your brain to go through the entire process again once you’ve leveled up from being a beginner. Clayton of @ombesurf explains how surfers go from freeze, fight, and flight to getting into the flow state of surfing.
Clayton Nienaber, the surf coach of @ombesurf joins me in this week’s podcast to reveal the key to unlocking better surfing by understanding the mechanics of a wave and learning about speed, power, and flow.
Chapters
00:00 Starting with a Passion for Surfing
04:15 Transitioning to Board Shaping
07:41 The Importance of Making Mistakes
10:28 Understanding Surfing Levels: Freeze, Flight, Fight, Flow
13:22 The Relationship Between Speed, Power, and Flow
19:11 The Power and Energy of Waves
21:04 Surfing with Speed, Power, and Flow
25:13 The Importance of Early Bottom Turns
28:07 The Combination of Rider Input and Wave Power
30:36 Transitioning Between Different Board Designs
40:16 Choosing the Right Board for Different Waves
42:10 Using Cameras to Analyze Wave Performance
44:35 The Importance of Reading the Bottom of the Wave
45:38 The Process of Learning to Surf
47:00 Understanding Different Parts of the Wave
48:56 The Debate: Head Up vs Head Down When Paddling
58:01 Using Surfskate to Improve Surfing Technique
01:05:39 Teaching Sensation Rather than Replicating Surfing
01:09:04 The Showdown: Head Up vs Head Down Paddling
Full podcast out now on YouTube, Apple and Spotify! Link in bio. 🏄🏻♂️🏄🏻♀️
#surf #surfing #surftraining #learntosurf
