Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini | Spring Summer 2022 | Fashion Show

Lorenzo Serafini was talking about freedom ahead of his Philosophy show today. “It’s about the power of movement, of wanting to show more skin. It’s a rebirth: back to life. And I wanted to celebrate it.” Such musings have been a common refrain this season, and there’s been quite a bit of consensus about what the rebirth will look like, too. In Milan, designers have taken a hard turn toward sexiness, Serafini included.

The catsuits and lingerie dressing he pitched for spring represent a significant shift from his fall, which leaned preppy with its school uniforms and letterman sweaters. That collection, too, was a departure from the one before, which had a more bohemian, earthy vibe. We’ve all done some introspecting this last year-and-a-half of the pandemic. This time around Serafini explained that his soul searching led him back to his early days in fashion. He pointed to a mood board pinned with Italian Vogue photos of a young Sofia Coppola and Philosophy ad campaigns from the mid-’90s by Mark Borthwick and Steven Meisel.

On the runway, a long lacquered red slip dress conjured those mid-’90s years. Otherwise, the collection flitted from those lycra catsuits through micro florals, clingy intarsia knits, and a section of liquid sequins, with fringed vegan leather outerwear as a finishing touch. There was also a ’70s via the ’90s deconstructed denim skirt. The show didn’t necessarily hold together, but its racy, skin-baring provocation was on trend. For those on the lookout for the signature Serafini sweetness, it came at the end in the form of a white ruffled lace dress worn with strappy flat sandals.

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