At seven in the morning on a recent Saturday, acolytes stand in line at Franklin Barbecue in Austin, Tex., where Aaron Franklin smokes salt-and-pepper-rubbed briskets until they are coal black and bursting with juice. By 11, when Franklin takes his first order, the crowd is 100 strong. And when Franklin hands over the first paper plate of the day, heaped with meat, beans, and slaw, a throaty cheer ripples through the crowd, the sort of outburst more associated with presidents than pitmasters.
Welcome to the glory days of American barbecue. And not just in Texas. In Tennessee, in the Carolinas, out in California, and beyond, pitmasters like Franklin carry forward a style of cookery that predates our republic.
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