Is your motorcycle not running right? Here's a quick checklist of easy fixes to try before pulling the carburetor or taking your dirt bike to a mechanic (yeah they're simple, but often overlooked):
Check for fuel.
Check to make sure fuel is not too old (smells weak or like varnish).
Check that the petcock is on.
Check the flow between the gas tank and carburetor.
Check the vent hose and the gas cap to make sure air can pass through.
Check the air filter, it should be clean and sticky to the touch.
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If these all look good, start with the basics of the carburetor:
Loosen the rubber boots/joints on the sides of the carburetor (one goes to the motor, the other to the airbox) and slide the carb out. Check the boots/joints for cracks, wear, or damage, and replace damaged boots.
Pull the carburetor out slightly so you can get access to the bottom of the carb without removing the throttle cables from the other side, and undo only the bolts that hold the float bowl (bottom section) on. Now you'll have access to the jets, floats, needle, and seat. You can remove the jets with small flat-head screwdrivers and/or small sockets. Remove one at a time because they're small and it's just easier to keep track of them.
Either clean the jets by spraying carb cleaner (wear protective eyewear!) through the tiny holes in the middle or replace them with new jets from your local dealership. Jets are only about $3 each, and they can often recommend exactly what you need if you tell them about your motorcycle's mods, exhaust, and the altitude you plan to ride at.
Spray the float bowl and up into the carburetor with carb cleaner, then replace the float bowl. Put the carb back in the bike and make sure it sits right in the boots. Tighten the boots/joints back up and run the bike.
It should be running much better/smoother now, but still might need some simple adjustments if it's bogging down, backfiring/popping, or running too hot. Make these adjustments with the fuel/air mixture screw/pilot assembly, located on the bottom of the carb towards the motor side. Turn it clockwise in half-turn increments to reduce bogging and backfiring, and turn it counterclockwise in half-turn incriments to cool it off.
At this point you just need to adjust the idle screw, usually doable by hand. Clockwise will make the bike idle at higher RPMs to prevent stalling, and counter clockwise will lower the RPMs at idle.
These simple fixes will work with probably 90% of all running problems. If these simple steps don't work, then I'd consult a mechanic at that point. Carburetors can be pretty finicky, and if the carb is good but the bike still has problems, it could be a deeper issue. Good luck!
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