Footage of an Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche Collection fashion show benefitting the Atlanta Association for Retarded Citizens. Shots of models walking down the runway.
Yves Saint Laurent SAS (/ˌiːv ˌsæ̃ lɔːˈrɒ̃/; UK: /- lɒˈ-/; US: /- loʊˈ-/; French: [iv sɛ̃ lɔʁɑ̃] (listen)), also known as Saint Laurent and YSL,[3] is a French luxury fashion house founded in 1962 by Yves Saint Laurent and his partner, Pierre Bergé. The company specializes in haute couture, ready-to-wear, leather accessories, and footwear.[4] Its cosmetics line, YSL Beauty, is owned by L'Oréal.
The eponymous brand was established in 1962 by designer Yves Saint Laurent and his partner, Pierre Bergé. The brand's logos were designed in 1963 by A. M. Cassandre.[7] During the 1960s and 1970s, YSL popularized the beatnik look, safari jackets, tight pants, and thigh-high boots. In 1966, YSL debuted Le Smoking, a tuxedo suit for women. In an attempt to democratize fashion, YSL began producing ready-to-wear in 1966, with its launch of Rive Gauche, and is considered to be the first to popularize the concept.[8] YSL's designs often featured designs influenced from traditional Chinese clothing, as well as themes from Pop Art, Ballet Russes, and Picasso. Saint Laurent is credited with initiating the broad, shoulder-padded style in 1978 that would go on to characterize 1980s fashion.[9] Saint Laurent's muses included Loulou de La Falaise, Betty Catroux, Talitha Pol-Getty, and Catherine Deneuve.[10]
YSL dress "Hommage à Piet Mondrian" (A/W 1965) on left, with inspiration Composition in red, blue and white II by Piet Mondrian on right
Models in cocktail dresses (A/W 1965) by Yves Saint Laurent inspired by Piet Mondrian art, 1966
The brand expanded in the 1980s and early 1990s with men's and women's fragrances, and its cosmetic line in 1978. However, by 1992, the company's profits were in decline and its share price had fallen.[11] In 1993, Saint Laurent was sold to pharmaceuticals company Sanofi.[12]
In 1997, Pierre Bergé appointed Hedi Slimane as collections and art director and relaunched Rive Gauche Homme.[13] Slimane departed two years later to head couture menswear at Dior Homme.[14]
In 1999, Kering purchased YSL and hired Tom Ford to design the ready-to-wear collection, while Yves Saint Laurent himself would design the haute couture collection.[15] Designs by Tom Ford For YSL were chosen Dress of the Year by the Fashion Museum in 2001 and 2004.[16]
In 2002, after years of poor health, drug abuse, depression, alcoholism, and criticisms of YSL designs, Saint Laurent closed the couture division of YSL. "Chanel freed women, and I empowered them,"[11] Saint Laurent was quoted, reflecting on his career and impact on fashion, "I created the contemporary woman's wardrobe."[11] In 2004, Tom Ford departed the company and Stefano Pilati, an Italian-born designer became creative director.[17] Yves Saint Laurent died of brain cancer in 2008.[18] The following few years proved to be tumultuous for the company,[11] with YSL stores closing in the key U.S. markets of San Francisco and New York (including the company's Madison Avenue location, its first-ever store in the United States). In January 2010, its Chicago boutique on Oak Street also closed.[19]
In 2012, Kering announced Hedi Slimane replaced Stefano Pilati as creative director for YSL. Slimane previously worked with Dior Homme until 2007. In 2015, Slimane announced he would revive Yves Saint Laurent's couture line.[20] In 2016, Slimane left Saint Laurent[21] and Anthony Vaccarello was appointed creative director, a position he still holds as of August 2022.[22]
Despite Slimane previously working with the house, there was controversy following his appointment, particularly after the announcement the ready-to-wear line would be rebranded “Saint Laurent” (dropping “Yves” from its name).[23] ”Yves Saint Laurent” and the YSL vertical monogram logo would remain for accessories and its L’Oréal-owned cosmetics line. Slimane drew inspiration for the name change from the ready-to-wear line Rive Gauche’s name when it first launched, “Saint Laurent Rive Gauche”.[24] Parisian boutique Colette began selling shirts with the line "Ain't Laurent without Yves." Saint Laurent requested the store stop selling the shirts (which it did on its online store). In October 2013, Colette received a letter from YSL accusing it of selling counterfeit products that seriously damaged the brand. Following the accusation, Saint Laurent canceled Colette's order for its Spring 2014 Collection, despite Colette stocking the brand since 1998.[25]
After his appointment, Slimane moved the design studio to Los Angeles, Slimane's home; the couture atelier would remain in France.[11] The company revived its haute couture collection in 2015 under Slimane.[26]
