Ike jime is a Japanese fish preparation method that paralyses fish and drains them of blood. When done correctly, it not just preserves the fish’s flavour and texture but also allows the flesh to develop an umami dimension when aged.

“Ike Jime is a multi-series steps of controls and these steps are designed to mitigate all the effects of biochemical reactions,” says Andrew Tsui, president of the Ike Jime Federation.

The steps he refers to involve disrupting the brain and the spinal cord. Such techniques are said to have developed some 350 years ago, and Japanese chefs have been using this technique since. After all, key to good sushi and sashimi is in ageing the fish, allowing the enzymes to break down and moisture to evaporate, resulting in a concentrated flavour.

Japanese chefs will tell you that there are three variations on ikejime. You can simply submerge them in ice water (a method known as no-jime). You can stun the fish, immediately spike them in the brain and leave them to bleed out in water through an incision in their gills (standard ikejime). Or, like Wood, you can feed a wire along the fish’s spinal cord in between spiking and bleeding (shinkei-jime). All three methods delay the process of putrefaction. Shinkei-jime is the most effective because it destroys nerves that would otherwise encourage the build-up of lactic acid.

Sashimi benefits most from ikejime. Whereas sushi is best once the fish has passed through rigor mortis – when the flesh has become tender and the concentrations of umami acids have risen – the best time to eat sashimi, according to Yoshinori, is before rigor mortis. No-jime can delay rigor mortis for an hour, standard ikejime for about eight hours and shinkei-jime for up to 24 hours. Yoshinori serves me a bowl of turnip purée, garnished with caviar and draped with slices of raw Arctic char, a cold-water fish from the salmon family. The texture is extraordinary: silky but crunchy, like microscopic bubble-wrap. To follow is a plate of turbot usuzukuri, sliced to translucence. It too snaps between the teeth and while there’s depth to the flavour because the umami has had time to develop, it still tastes freshly caught.


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