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Greetings, I'll be your guide to the Bulgari Octo Velocissimo Ultranero Chronograph black DLC stainless steel with rose gold accents. This is a 2016 Baselworld novelty combining a 41 millimeter case, again, in black DLC stainless steel with the classic eight-sided, 110 facet Bulgari Octo case.
The watch is a dynamic sporting reference that combines the king of complications, the chronograph, with a slim profile and a gorgeous, jewelry inspired, fully integrated look. Working from the outside in, it's important to start with the buckle and the strap. The buckle, Bulgari-signed black DLC stainless steel like the case, allows easy on the fly adjustability for periods of activity, inactivity, hot or cold, when the size of the wrist may change. A natural vulcanized rubber strap features clever evacuated elements underneath. These channels allow heat, moisture, grit, and sweat to escape on hot days while reducing the amount of material and making the strap more pliant and supple in the process. It features a strong character line, effectively a ridge along its flanks that joins seamlessly with the form of the case.
The case, inspired by the 310 AD Basilica Maxentius, is a combination of architecture and horology in a single package. The watch uses strong rose gold accents to really set off the black, the dominant black, of the Ultranero collection. The dial features a rich, dark lacquer, also black, but in this case a lustrous take on black lacquer. It looks almost deep, as though you could plunge a finger into it, having seemingly no bottom. All of the indices in white provide a high contrast for easy reading of chronograph seconds outboard. The watch features a discreet jump date at 4:30 so that you have that information when you want it, but it is seamless and unobtrusive when you don't. All of the sub-registers feature concentric golden circles to allow easy reading of the registers and prodigious pulchritude of the dial. The case itself, which features well over a hundred ridges, 110 to be precise, uses a complex differential finish alternately polished and satin brushed. Although all black, it is not monolithic.
Highly nuanced from all aspects, the Octo is nothing if not subtle. The drama of the case is matched by the caliber. The BVL 328 is a high beat, automatic winding movement, ten beats per second or 5 hertz, it's an automatic caliber with a 50 hour power reserve pivoting on 31 jewels. The movement, beautifully finished, features both polished and blued screws and traditional column wheel actuation such that the engagement, disengagement, and resetting of the chronograph is crisp and satisfying from a tactile standpoint. The case, with all of its facets, also features immense hermeticity. Ten ATM or 100 meter water resistance.
To preserve the iconic lines of the Octo case Bulgari integrates the chronograph pushers into the flanks of the case structure itself, such that they're almost completely invisible until actuated. The chronograph can be started, stopped, and reset thanks to the clandestine location of the pushers, a seamless aesthetic element as well as a functional element of the movement.
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