When searching for a solution myself for my dead TX wheel base, I found several really good and helpful videos, but I suddenly realized that all the other videos solely focused on 1 single issue each… one video one issue, another video a different issue etc…

So I decided to give it a shot and make this video while covering the 3 most common causes for a faulty Thrustmaster racing wheel… I would say that there’s a approximately 90% chance that you will locate the cause to the problem you’re facing with your Thrustmaster TX,TMX,T series wheel base (probably any Thrustmaster wheel base) with any of these issues:

Completely dead, no light, no calibration and not recognized…
Random and reoccurring issues like:
Sudden disconnect, random loss of ffb, weak ffb, wheel turn off during calibration, wheel suddenly turn off with difficulty reconnecting afterwards etc…

Step 1: The breakaway usb cable.
This is a very easy place to begin troubleshooting.
Replace the breakaway cable, either borrow one for testing to either confirm or exclude a potential issue, or simply buy a new one (approximately 8€ original and 2-3€ not original cable).

Step 2: The plastic adapter on the back of the ffb motor. (High probability).
The plastic quality of these adapters is so bad, that they break at a rate that should make Thrustmaster ashamed of themselves!
If it doesn’t look broken or cracked then carefully try to wiggle it slightly, this can expose cracks which can be difficult to see…
On the adapter there’s a small circuit board, unscrew it and check the solder joints on the backside of it…
(Mine were frighteningly bad, so I re-soldered every connection on the backside).

Step 3: Main power supply.

REMEMBER TO DISCONNECT ALL CABLES AND MAIN POWER CORD FIRST!

Inside the main power supply is also a small circuit board, on that board are 2 components that are prone to failure…
In one end of the board there’s two thin wires connected (black and red) (5 volts from the usb cable).
On the other end of the board there’s two thicker wires (both black).

Test the board for faulty components by bypassing them… bypass them by connecting the two thicker black wires, i.e solder on a small wire between the two black wires, thus completing the circuit outside the circuit board…

If there’s a faulty component a new one costs something like 15 cents in a electronics store, you probably have to buy a pack which brings you up to 2-3 €/$…

I hope this helped you locating the problem… all of the 3 issues are quick, easy and cheap to fix…
If you don’t know how to solder there’s guaranteed someone local that can help you, for someone who knows how to solder this is a very quick and easy fix…

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