The David Koma Woman, the designer’s imaginary muse, has always been a multifaceted character, reflective of the complexities of the modern woman. For Resort 2023, the so-called Koma Girl is a heroine breaking away from the mundane and embarking on an other-worldly solo adventure across the rocky landscape of volcanic islands and snow-covered mountain ranges. The disparate settings are a nod to the contrasts within her and comment on the peculiar seasonality of the fashion calendar.
In celebration of her sensuality, lingerie elements play on masking and revealing the feminine form. Delicate lace is seen as soft corsetry bodies and long opera gloves; transparent organza gown sheathes the silhouette, and cut-out bra detail appears on flowing satin camisole dresses. The deconstructed balconette, worn on top of garments, brings underwear to the forefront.
Her strength and an adventurous spirit are seen in cyber cowgirl-inspired multi-strap leather trousers, chaps-like skirt and pebbled leather floor-length coat in chestnut brown or graphite black. The horseshoe motif appears on a printed t-shirt and as horseshoe-shaped cut-out hems, that are studded with metal ball chain embroidery.
The head-to-toe denim look showcases an update on utilitarian ruggedness, while the caramel ruched soft jersey, luxurious pale pink cashmere, and gauzy neon pink mohair play on delicate femininity. By night she slips into a coquettish acid ombre payette mini or a dramatic neon yellow ruffle gown.
The Iris flower, an Ancient Greek symbol of wisdom, valour, and the link between heaven and earth, imbues the collection. In opposition to dainty floral prints often associated with feminine attire, the iris is powerfully exaggerated and appears hand drawn, as if tattooed onto the wearer in crystallised black ink. Elsewhere, the flower is cast into 3D metal decorations, adorning the necklaces and necklines of garments. Evoking the irregular organic shape of iris petals, elongated ruffles add movement, flowing out of fitted minis and cropped tops.
This season, the Koma Girl exudes the main character energy, with a wardrobe that embraces the duality and contradictions of modern women and pays homage to the multiple roles they play.
The second instalment of the designer’s foray into footwear sees thigh-high metal toe cap boots return in seasonal colourways of neon and pale pink neoprene and stretch denim. Western inspirations are seen across slouchy extra tall and ankle cowboy boots and mules in chestnut brown, embossed silver, and classic white and black. Hand-embroidered iridescent crystal Iris boots complete the range.
Photographer: Thomas Lohr
Stylist: Marc Goehring
Casting: Svea Greichgauer
Set Designer: Tom Schneider
Models: Malika El Maslouhi, Michelle Laff, Pasha Harulia, Kateryna Lashko
Make up artist: Patrick Glatthaar
Hair stylist: Cos Sakkas, TONI&GUY
Creative Consultancy: ANCC Studio
BTS Photographer: Simonas Berukstis
Videographers: David Jenewein and Jim Petersen
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About David Koma:
David Koma is a London-based fashion designer who has become synonymous with the ultra body contouring silhouette, creating sculptural statement dresses inspired by the feminine form. Alongside the cocktail dresses that propelled the designer onto the international stage, David Koma offering has expanded to include full range of options from precise daywear separates to beautifully tailored outerwear and showstopping red carpet gowns.
Born in Tbilisi, Georgia, David Koma discovered his penchant for dress design at the young age of eight. David studied Fine Art in St Petersburg, showing his first collection at the age of 15. In 2003 David moved to London to take up a place at the prestigious Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design, graduating with a distinction in MA Fashion in April 2009 under the mentorship of the late Professor Louise Wilson, OBE.
Straight after graduation David Koma launched his eponymous ready-to-wear brand and has been a participant of London Fashion Week ever since.
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