Speaker cables can be INSANE, but I hope to offer a little levity... Click vV "More" Vv
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Speaker cables I've used AND can comfortably recommend:
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Terminations:
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Pre-terminated at 2-5 foot differences, from 4 feet up to 50 feet:
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Subwoofers I recommend for those who have $10,000 and up speakers, since they come in piano gloss for a more "premium" look.
Personally, I like the Premium Black Ash, but the piano finish would look right at home next to a Steinway Grand Concert Model D. Easily configurable to sealed mode, but I believe most people would choose to use them in the full ported mode. The the cliché of the unrefined, floppy ported subwoofer is *completely inapplicable* to ported subs of this caliber.
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My favorite of all time (cost no concern), so far:
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Aside from the piano appearance, I'm confident that these subs, properly integrated using my Bass Hack series (atypical subwoofer tuning recommendations) will improve the sound of ANY speaker, $50 to $500,000:
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With ANY matching pair of subwoofers I recommend, properly integrated, replace your super expensive speaker cable with inexpensive ones, and your overall satisfaction would be FAR better than with expensive cables and no subs/shallow subs. (most are shallow sounding, even crazy expensive ones).
If your goal is sound reproduction, true to the original artist's intentions, **devoid of ANY audible inadequacies**, deep bass subwoofers are an ABSOLUTE requirement.
An upright bass, a pipe organ, even a piano, they all have deep frequencies that a typical subwoofers and 99.999% of tower speakers simply cannot faithfully reproduce in believable, "you're really there" fashion.
From a purist perspective, DSP (Digital Signal Processing) only belongs in a subwoofer, to overcome the natural tendency for subwoofers and speakers to get quieter as they go deeper.
Without power applied specifically and precisely where it's needed, bass will be the dragon you chase forever.
A "warm sound" is similar to warm light, it's frequency based. Cool light and cool sound favor higher frequencies, where warm sound and warm light favor lower frequencies. Consider a 2700k lightbulb and a 9000k lightbulb. The 2700k is warmer, more red, while the 90000k bulb is cooler, and more blue.
Like sound, the longer the wavelength, the "warmer" the quality. For the internet police, yes light waves are at MUCH higher frequencies, sound is a pressure wave, where light is electromagnetic, but the analogy holds up.
If you find cables that sound "warmer" than another, more power is likely getting through, as the highest power requirements are at the lowest (warmest) frequencies.
You could get 4/0 gauge welding cable, twist them yourself to keep the twisted pair effect, then gold plate and reduce it way down to fit your speaker terminal. That would eliminate ANY possibility of attenuation, assuming the lowest possible resistance is achieved.
But why? The cables in your expensive towers aren't nearly that big (because it's not necessary), and deep bass subwoofers would be FAR more effective at delivering a "warmer sound".
I had a little fun here, but hopefully you get my point.
You could spend $20,000+ on speaker cables to *maybe* get a slightly, almost imperceptibly warmer sound, which would almost certainly be immeasurable.
OR, you could get the least expensive dual subs I recommend, for around $1,500, and get that undeniably deeper, warmer sound that is *absolutely measurable*, EASILY perceptible to virtually ANY listener, and enjoy music SOOOO much more.
Have fun in the comments!!!
00:00 Intro
00:11 Things just get so crazy...
00:24 Vastly different, STRONG opinions
00:45 The Downgrade
00:59 Get it twisted!
01:57 Length and Attenuation
02:10 WOW, the STRONG OPINIONS!!!
02:41 Beware the "technologies"...
02:59 Fireplace, mixed use woes...
03:15 Unlimited budget? Bass first...
03:43 BEWARE: MUSICAL SUBS...
04:01 Deep rated vs Deep sounding
04:50 6 SOLID TIPS
05:02 Best return on investment
05:14 Amused and slightly terrified...
05:37 Challenge to Audiophiles
