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Herve Leger by Max Azria Spring 2016 NYFW

From: Vogue.com
NEW YORK, SEPTEMBER 12, 2015
by LIANA SATENSTEIN
Today was the 30th anniversary of Hervé Léger, and show-going lovers of the label shuffled in wearing none other than the house’s perennial frock: the bandage dress. The attire was predictable, but creative officer Lubov Azria threw onlookers for a loop when it came to the runway: There wasn’t a bandage dress in sight. “We were thinking, ‘How do we evolve this line on the runway, where we didn’t do one bandage technique?’ ” said Azria backstage.

Sure, the decision not to include the popular, body-skimming piece synonymous with the house seemed risky, but Azria managed to keep the DNA of Hervé Léger alive in other ways. First, from afar, many of the minidresses looked like bandage dresses and moved like bandage dresses (they barely moved at all). Those features were enough to keep the die-hard lovers of the staple happy. For instance, there were still those hourglass-hugging silhouettes, this time seen in jacquard fit-and-flare frocks, which came in black and cream with crisscross netting dipping down into the décolletage. But Azria was also able to infuse some new techniques, like floral appliqués on tank dresses, which nicely traced the body to emphasize the waist. There were also some woven cords on a sleeveless dress, slightly curved for a slenderizing trompe l'oeil effect.

But it was Azria’s introduction of trousers on the catwalk (before, she had only showed leggings) which provided a true dose of cool. Jacquard pants were striped or patterned, flaring out at the knee—an effect that seemingly elongated the legs—or were woven into slouchy or fitted jumpsuits. The new direction still contained that bold va va voom factor of a bandage dress, but it wasn't as forward—and with it, Azria could potentially gain a new set of fans.

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