Inspired by the work of Morgan Maassen, many surfing documentaries and mostly, by the Pulitzer Prize winner book, Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan, I decided to realize my dream and connect with the ocean, check my luck in surfing, trying to catch some long waves, and to do my first video with surfing.
Dream realized! I still have a looooot to learn and can't wait to paddle for another wave, and probably be smashed by it.
As the William Finnegan putted:
"Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life."
Paddle, paddle, paddle, paddle, paddle, for your dream.
![](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/L7qNedxPyqo/maxresdefault.jpg)