China Beach Campground
West Coast of Vancouver Island at the start of the Juan de Fuca trail.
The Juan de Fuca trail is sometimes considered a warm-up hike for the more famous West Coast Trail – the 75-kilometre (46 mile) trail along the West side of Vancouver Island from Port Renfrew to Bamfield, or vice versa. The Juan de Fuca trail is most often hiked from China Beach to Port Renfrew, though some prefer going from Port Renfrew to China Beach. Either way, China Beach features in the hike, and for us a weekend away car camping a stay at China Beach with a couple of day hikes to the more scenic beaches was just what we had time for and needed. China Beach itself is a 1 kilometre hike from the campsite. There are boardwalks and stairs – 248 stairs to be approximate (I may have missed one or two). It is a moderate hike through old-growth forest with some massive fir and cedar trees along the way.

Mystic Beach absolutely took our breath away – something out of a Jules Verne novel. The waterfall on to the beach is refreshing – you can grab a handful of water and splash your face. Standing under it is tempting, but the potential for rocks to be coming along with the water is significant, so we don’t recommend it. At the opposite end from the waterfall there is a cave with two archways in/out, and the rocks have a black satin appearance, and touch. It is very cool. Barnacles, muscles and what we suspect were starfish clinging to the muscles, cover many of these black rocks. We easily spent a couple of hours here. Be mindful of the tide – the barnacles and muscles indicate how far the water comes in, and at high tide you would not be able to go in to the cave.

Links:
China Beach Campground
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Mystic Beach (day hike from China Beach)
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Sombrio Beach (with the chattering rocks) day hike (after a short drive) from China Beach
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Ocean Island Inn Backpackers Hostel in Victoria, B.C.
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Book referenced in the video: “Blisters & Bliss”
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Peaceful Nomads Cook Book
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