Here my findings when converting Whoops to Pushers 📈 On my "heaviest" (thrust-to-weight) pusher-build (a 75mm frame with 0802's and NO CAMERA) I did notice A VERY SMOOTH AND LOCKED-IN FLIGHT! 🛸 It also had LESS LOSS OF FLIGHT-TIME than the other pusher-builds! 🤖👍 But that all changed once I installed the camera and increased its weight...😕 So by now I'm pretty much convinced that whatever form-factor you choose, restricting air-flow at top (INPUT), instead of restricting airflow at bottom (OUTPUT) is just less efficient 🤔
[INPUT IS MORE IMPORTANT THAN OUTPUT]
So if you need to restrict airflow, best to do it at the bottom, or make your pusher's thrust-to-weight ratio VERY, VERY HIGH! Meaning; adding more high powered propeller (disk-space) in comparison to the rest of the construction.
[PRACTICALITY?]
Also consider that as pusher having the propellers unrestricted at the bottom, will expose them to more trouble! And might not be all that practical...
[PROPELLERS]
The most difficult part of these conversions was modifying and changing out the props, most of them from manufacturer Gemfam, notorious for being really tight and hard to remove… 🙌😬 This tightness can also be a plus of course, but I still can't feel the tips of my fingers...🙌!
[RETAIL PUSHER-WHOOPS?]
When it comes to retail pusher-whoops, there is only 1 manufacturer: EMAX with its TINYHAWK SERIES! Popular due to its distinctive flight characteristics. Described as "very locked in, like on rails", these whoops are also not very efficient or suited for outdoors, but inside they fly like a dream. I had a little taste of that with my "heaviest" (thrust-to-weight) pusher-build. This build flew super-smooth while been very reactive to my controls. Maybe more suited for "flat-out racing" where efficiency and practicality aren't priorities?
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