► Sew Essential [ Ссылка ]
► Viki Sews patterns [ Ссылка ]
► Viki Sews Gloria dress [ Ссылка ]
► John Kaldor Prestige crepe in plum [ Ссылка ]
► Matching Guterman thread colour 718 [ Ссылка ]
► John Kaldor Prestige all colours [ Ссылка ]
► Invisible zip colour 299 [ Ссылка ]
► Stay tape [ Ссылка ]
► Interfacing [ Ссылка ]
► Calico for toiles [ Ссылка ]
This week I'm excited to share my latest make, the Gloria dress by Viki Sews patterns. This was the first time I sewed with one of their patterns and I couldn't wait to get started, the designs are so original and fashion forward. I have a long list of their patterns I would love to make.
Sewing pattern and fabric
The Gloria dress has a figure hugging bodice with bust and waist darts and fish darts at the back and the waist darts continue onto the pelmet shape mini skirt. The bodice has a sweetheart neckline at the front and contemporary square neck at the back. The simple, clean lines of the bodice and skirt are complimented beautifully by the exaggerated puff sleeves, which are gathered at the shoulder and the hem then finished with a dramatic, deep shirred cuff. This dress was SO much fun to make!
The fabric is John Kaldor Prestige in the plum colourway. It is such a great fabric and is the one used on the famous red dress on the dressform in the background. It comes in a fab range of colours and is great quality and very reasonably priced.
Sewing pattern sizing and adjustments
I made a toile in calico because it was the first time I'd made a Viki Sews pattern and I made a size 38 at the bust grading to a 40 at the waist and hips. The 38 bust measurement was 34.6" and I'm a 34" and the 40 waist and hips measurements were 28.3" and 38.5" which is about bang on my body measurements.
I made my usual forward shoulder and high round back adjustment and have included a tutorial for how to do this below.
I also inserted a shoulder dart to fix a gaping back armhole and have included a tutorial on how to do this below.
I didn't include as deep a hem as suggested by the pattern because I didn't want it to be that short and I also hand sewed the hem for a clean finish. I sewed a 1/2" hem rather than the 1 and 1/2" hem suggested by the pattern.
Construction
Sewing the Gloria was a lot of fun, there was a great balance between basic sewing techniques and fun, more unusual ones.
I definitely think I need to press the darts more! I would consider shortening them a little next time too and I will also re-sew the invisible zip closer to the teeth to avoid the zip tape peeking out when I'm wearing the dress. On the hanger it was invisible, but because the bodice is so close fitting I think I need to sew a little closer to the teeth for more coverage.
All in all I am thrilled with this dress, think it is a beautiful design and can't wait to wear it.
► High round back adjustment tutorial [ Ссылка ]
► How to sew shirring tutorial [ Ссылка ]
► How to add a shoulder dart tutorial [ Ссылка ]
