How to change the rear wheel cylinders on a 1st generation Toyota Tacoma. This particular truck I am working with here today is a 2001 4wd model which has the larger drum brake assembly. A similar replacement can also be applied to the 3rd generation Toyota 4Runner as well. The existing wheel cylinders were not seized or leaking on this truck, but thankfully the previous owner had new replacements just for preventative maintenance. Typically wheel cylinders can fail in a couple different ways. They can either seize up from rust, they have two pistons, one pointing to the front and the other towards the rear. Either of this pistons or both can seize. The seals can also fail in the wheel cylinder which would be shown by residue inside the brake drum assemble or on the outside of the backing plate towards the bottom. #toyota #toyotatacoma #Schwaben
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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-standard screwdriver
-hold down spring tool
-hammer
-ratchet with sockets
-brake pressure bleeding kit
-brake fluid
-wheel cylinders
-rubber gloves
-line wrenches
-rubber hose
-bottle
-drain pan
-brake fluid
Procedure:
-elevate the rear of the vehicle and remove the wheels
-remove the brake drum
-the wheel cylinder can be replaced without completely disassembling the drum brakes
-remove the “C” clip for the adjuster lever using a standard screwdriver
-remove the lever
-close up the automatic adjuster so the shoes a little bit more movement
-remove one shoe’s hold down spring
-remove the brake line at the wheel cylinder and have a drain pan below to catch the dripping fluid
-disconnect the abs sensor
-remove the two 10mm bolts which holds on the wheel cylinder
-give the wheel cylinder a light tap with a hammer if it’s stuck in place and then remove
-install the new wheel cylinder. I have installed new fasteners with washers as well, but you can reuse yours if they’re still in good condition.
-reinstall the hold down spring for the shoe, also make sure those shoes are properly interlocked with the wheel cylinder’s pistons
-the shoes should fit inside the U shaped push blocks
-then reinstall the automatic adjuster lever, along with the “C” clip
-moving onto the driver’s side of the truck, do the same procedure
-I took the easier, but slightly more expensive route and purchased new pre-bent lines from the dealer
-all the new hardware bolts are switched out to stainless steel so I don’t need to worry about future rusting
-here I’m using my new Schwaben pressure bleeder kit from ECS Tuning
-fill the pressure bleeder with brake fluid
-locate the master cylinder’s reservoir and wipe off the surrounding around to remove any dirt which can fall inside the reservoir and remove the cap
-install the generic cap
-pump up the system about 10 to 15 psi and monitor for any leaks
-start with the furthest wheel from the master cylinder first, install a line wrench of the correct size, attach a clear rubber hose which fits tight around the bleeder, that goes directly to a drain pan or bottle
-loosen the bleeder screw and watch for fluid entering the line
-when no more bubbles leave the line, then tighten
-moving onto the other wheel
-keep an eye on the pressure, do not allow the pressure bleeder to go below 10psi, also do not allow the fluid to get low either
nstall the wrench, then the clear hose going to a drain bottle or pan
-once done, remove the pressure bleeder
-remove the pressure bleeder
-if there is too much fluid in the reservoir, use a turkey baster to remove it
-first press the brake pedal in order to center the shoes
-remove the rubber cover in the backing plate for the automatic adjuster
-using a standard screwdriver, rotate the star wheel on the automatic adjuster until there is mild drag on the drums
-check the pedal feel for firmness
-once done, reinstall the wheels
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