In the first test, we are checking the frame rate of the projector. Since the raw Wolverine Pro scan file is 20 fps, and since I had to scale the speed with a ratio of approximately 0.894 (to sync with the projector speed), then the projector speed is close to, but less than, 18 fps. This is surprisingly high for an 8mm projector.
Note also that a larger area of the film is scanned than what was ever shown with the projector. This is a nice capability of the Wolverine Data Film2Digital MovieMaker-PRO 8mm and Super 8 Converter. I simply zoom out to include part of the sprocket holes and beyond the other three exposed frame edges. Then I do a “crop & zoom” with the NLE software to capture a maximum custom frame size.
The camera was a Keystone K-4C Triple Lens Model. (Shot at 16 fps). The projector is a Kodak "Super Showtime 8 Movie Projector, model A25", (for 8mm only).
The projector-on-screen image was captured using a Canon HF M500 HD Camcorder. The "flicker" is due to the mismatch of frame rates between the projector and the camcorder and not the fault of the projector.
The Non-Linear Editing of the Wolverine Pro 1080p .mp4 file (and this video) was done with Power Director 15.
Theoretically, the 16fps is correct for Standard 8mm; (18fps for Super 8). But it seems possible that the old camera and the projector could both be inaccurate!
I show an excerpt of the clip at 16fps and then again at 18fps. I wasn't really sure whether to go with 16fps (slower) or with 18fps (faster). So I got my wife's opinion! She said definitely that the slower (16fps) was more realistic looking. So I guess that settles it!
Bottom line: For 8mm films, multiply the Wolverine Pro file speed (which is 20 fps) by 0.8 to get the correct 16fps. For Super 8, multiply the Wolverine Pro speed of 20fps by 0.9 to get the correct 18fps for Super 8. (If someone has film that was shot at 24 fps, then multiply the Wolverine Pro speed of 20 fps by 1.2 to get it back to 24 fps.) For anyone using the original Wolverine Reels2Digital, since that machine created .mp4 files at 30fps, multiply by 0.53333 for 8mm and 0.6 for Super 8 to achieve 16fps and 18 fps, respectively.
You really should check out the following video for very many useful tips:
Wolverine Pro Tips: Film Cleaning, Preventing Hang-ups, and PowerDirector Nonlinear Editing
[ Ссылка ]
Two other related videos you might find useful are:
Nonlinear Editing of a Wolverine Pro Scan of an 8mm Film
[ Ссылка ]
and
Wolverine Pro Scan vs. VHS Transfer - A Fun Disney 1987 Sample
[ Ссылка ]
I don't normally do this, but here is an example video with a ton of nonlinear editing. It has nothing to do with the Wolverine Pro; it's just for fun.
[ Ссылка ]
Note: Videos are purely a hobby of mine. I do not get paid in any way.
