We visited the delightful small village of Varaignes in March 2023. Varaignes is at the crossroads of three departments. Located in the north of the Périgord Vert, this city touches the Charente to the west and Haute-Vienne to the north and is north of the Dordogne department. It is situated inside the Perigord-Limousin Regional National Park. It is about 35 kilometers east of Angouleme and 16 kilometers north west of Nontron.
If you are in the area Varaignes is a pretty village dominated by its ancient castle which is home to a weaving and slipper-making museum. It is well worth a visit and is small enough to wander around for about an hour.
The castle in Varaignes dates back to the 13th century when its medieval keep was built. Later a hexaganol tower was built in Gothic style in the 15th century and in the 16th century the main building was added in Renaissance style. The castle was later abandoned until the villagers took charge of the castle and renovated it. It is now home to the Museum and workshop of weavers and slipper makers. A guided visit explains the history of the chateau as well as the crafts involved in the production of slippers and textiles.
Next to the castle is the halle and the centre of the village with pretty stone houses and a couple of shopes.
Behind the castel is the church which was built in the 12th and 13th centuries and altered in the 15 and 19th centuries. It has a large square bell-tower which along with the towers of the castle dominate views of the village.
Also to see in the village is the ancient grange aux dîmes where villagers used to go to pay their taxes, and an ancient lavoir where villagers used to wash their clothes.
Running along the southern edge of the village is the Ruisseau Le Crochet, also known as Varaignes creek. This is a tributary of the Bandiat river and the valleys of the river and the creek are protected as 'natural zones of ecological interest' and are home to nearly a hundred different plant species.
Varaignes is well known in the area for its annual turkey fair which takes place on the 11 November and dates back to the days of Henry IV. During the fair flocks of turkeys are paraded through the streets of Varaignes by their breeders who dress in traditional costumes.
As well as the parade of turkeys there is a contest to find the person who can make the best glouglou (turkey gobbling). In the evening there is a huge meal, of turkey of course!
Stalls set up selling traditional products including bourrou which is a sparkling grape drink and chestnut related products as there are many chestnut trees in the area. The castle puts on various animations and music is played throughout the village. The fair attracts over 10000 visitors each year.
Attractions nearby:
Just 5 minutes south of Varaignes is the village of Javerlhac-et-la-Chapelle-Saint-Robert which was our next visit. This small village has a lovely riverside setting and is worth the short detour.
Nontron is nearby and is famous for its Nontron knives which have been in production here for over 500 years.
La Rochefoucauld is about a 20 minute drive away and is home to the Chateau de La Rochefoucauld which is the most important castle in the Charente department.
