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Paco Rabanne Fall 2016 Ready-to-Wear PFW

from Vogue.com
PARIS, MARCH 3, 2016
by SARAH MOWER
The dark denim jeans with selvedge-edge seams you see in this photograph are available today on the Paco Rabanne website, as are the angular white “duvet” skirt, a black techno-fabric gilet, and a couple more items from the mixture of clothes for Spring 2016 and Fall 2016 Julien Dossena showed. Perhaps this mix of seasons is a glimpse of how things will be in the new, much-talked-about see-now, buy-now environment which is fast coming toward us. No one can argue with the logic that a fashion show—especially given the vast expense which goes into staging one—ought to be able to drive people to stores to find at least some of what they’ve seen immediately; otherwise it must all seem like a wasted advertising campaign to some logical-minded managers. Since the Internet happened to fashion reporting, back in the paleolithic age of circa 2000, everything’s been seen instantly. Yet essentially the question of human motivation still hangs: Do we want to take it, or leave it?

In Dossena’s case that would be a “take.” He is one of the leading talents who are currently rising from the margins in Paris, whether independently, or by doing a very professional, radicalizing job in a previously overlooked brand like Paco Rabanne. He’s now reached the stage where he’s changed the brand narrative without dismissing its staple—the chain mail which he dyed blood red or printed with flowers and draped into dresses and skimpy asymmetric tops at the finale.

Even so, we should reverse to the beginning of his collection to see the sculpted dresses and tailored coats and jackets, all made from ribbed jersey, and his brisk and to-the-point trouser suits and artfully laddered sweaters. With his space-age motocross boots and heavy square-toed loafers sprouting free-form fringing, it was intended to be an easy-to-wear, forward-looking way to dress. Sometimes, though—in fact always—it takes longer than three or four seasons for designers’ messages to develop, and then get through to a wider public. Once companies have the snap verdict of instant sales results, what then? Let’s hope it doesn’t add yet another pressure to the lives of talents like Dossena.

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