Climb from base camp at 3100m to Mount Khuiten high camp at 3775m. My climb was arranged and managed by Altai Nomads Travel.
0:00 My mountaineering guide Serjuma and high altitude porter Omirkhan led the way out of base camp 3100m at 13:20
0:21 We couldn’t find a porter so my camel man Omirkhan agreed, his first time on a glacier
0:26 We had a perfect view across to the Alexandra Glacier
0:39 And ahead to Mount Khuiten and Potanin Glacier
0:48 The first part of the route goes to Malchin Peak
0:52 And then the trail turns left
0:57 and goes over boulders
1:02 Before dropping to the Potanin Glacier at 3210m
1:06 We made it to the glacier after hiking for 3.7 km in 70 minutes with 150m elevation gain
1:21 I hiked up the glacier with lots of rivulets of water in the afternoon sun
1:39 There were a couple of obvious crevasses
2:39 We stopped for a snack at 16:30 after about 2 hours of climbing
2:44 I looked back down at the way we had come on the Potanin Glacier
2:49 And across at Malchin Peak 4030m
2:54 And ahead to Mount Khuiten
3:04 Serjuma helped Omirkhan shoulder his load and we started climbing again
3:10 We roped up as the route was now on snow and Serjuma constantly checked for hidden crevasses
3:31 We arrived at high camp 3775m at 18:20 after climbing for 3:40 with 565m elevation gain
3:36 I had a good view of the route to the summit
3:47 They quickly set up our tent, we had dinner and went to sleep
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