See the written text for this troubleshooting video here: [ Ссылка ]

This video from Sears PartsDirect shows what to do if your electric dryer won't heat. Learn about a few easy tests you can run to find the problem, including using a multimeter to make sure current is flowing between the parts.

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1. Check the power supply to the dryer
Check the dryer is getting the correct amount of power. The heating element needs 240 volts of electricity to heat. The motor will run even if the dryer is only getting 120 volts of power.
Check the power cord to make sure it’s not damaged. Then, reset the house circuit breaker to make sure it’s not tripped. Set the dryer to a timed dry, high-heat cycle and see if it heats up after resetting the breakers.
If it’s still not heating, check the components on the control circuit. Checking continuity with a multimeter will allow us to test them all at once.
• Unplug the dryer.
• Remove the back panel from the dryer, then remove the back of the control panel.
• Unplug the large red wire from terminal "A" on the timer. Set the multimeter to read ohms of resistance.
• Measure resistance between the large red wire on the timer and the heating element terminal where the large red wire is connected. If it measures near 15 ohms of resistance through this circuit, the heating element, high-limit thermostat, operating thermostat and thermal cut-off fuse are okay. You can skip ahead to learn how to check out your timer.

2. Check the heating element
If the multimeter measured no electrical continuity through this circuit, check the heating element. Place the multimeter leads on the heating element terminals. The multimeter should measure near 15 ohms of resistance through the heating element.
If it measured no continuity, the heating element is broken. This video shows how to replace it. [ Ссылка ]
If it measured near 15 ohms of resistance, the heating element is good.

3. Check the high-limit thermostat
Check the high-limit thermostat next. Place one meter lead on each terminal of the high-limit thermostat. The meter should measure near 0 ohms. If it measured no continuity, the high-limit thermostat will need to be replaced.

4. Test the operating thermostat
If the high-limit thermostat is okay, check the operating thermostat next. Place one meter lead on the red wire and the other meter lead on the red-white wire. It should measure near 0 ohms of resistance through the operating thermostat. If it measured no continuity, the operating thermostat will need to be replaced.
5. Check the thermal cut-off fuse
If the operating thermostat is good, check the thermal cut-off fuse next. Place one meter lead on the red-white wire and the other on the red wire. The meter should measure near 0 ohms. If it measured no continuity, replace the thermal cut-off fuse. [ Ссылка ]

6. Check timer last
If the thermal cut-off fuse is good, check the timer. With the dryer still disconnected, turn the timer to timed dry, high heat. Place one meter lead on terminal A with the red wire and the other on terminal C with the black wire. If it measured no continuity, then the timer is broken.
Here’s a video that shows you how to replace it. [ Ссылка ]

7. Other possible problems
If you’ve made it through all these checks and you still haven’t found the problem, you could have a defective motor centrifugal switch, a bad plug or a failed circuit breaker. You'll need to get a service technician to check these for you.


The video includes these parts and tools. Look up your model to make sure you get the right parts for your dryer.
Heating element
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High-limit thermostat
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Operating thermostat
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Thermal cut-off fuse kit
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Timer
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Find parts for your dryer at:
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Or click here to schedule an appointment with a repair technician. [ Ссылка ]

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