With a wildlife pond its best not to use pumps. This prevents wildlife from getting caught up in them. For the filtration you can rely on plants. The plants reduce the nutrient content of the water so that it doesn’t get over run with algae.
The plants also provide habitat for a wide variety of animals.
Wildlife ponds make such a difference to the abundance of garden wildlife. It’s one of the best ways of housing a greater diversity of wildlife in our gardens.
They make such a great focal point for a garden too. What can be better than looking out onto a pond in full bloom with dragon flies emerging from the reeds?
Materials
Butyl pond liner
Non woven fleece (terram)
Caledonian pebbles
I put a fair amount of the subsoil (the soil from around 30cm below the surface) back into the pond as the substrate for planting. Frogs also hibernate in the sludge at the bottom of the pond. You can use sand or washed gravel but why would you when you have subsoil already available?
The subsoil and use of tap water means that the initial nutrient level of the pond is high. You’ll need to fish out some filamentous algae before the plants have established. Leave it on the side of the pond so any critters in it have time to get back in the water.
Timestamps
0:00 Intro
1:21 clearing rocks and logs
1:29 filling the holding tank
1:33 Emptying the pond and netting the wildlife
1:52 Removing the plants
2:18 When is it best to make or work on ponds?
2:36 Removing liners and digging
3:13 Fleece Lining
3:32 Measuring the pond
5:12 Installing the liner
5:48 Adding a fleece overlay
6:28 Add subsoil
7:06 Filling the pond and replanting
8:28 The finished pond
Planting list
Myriophyllum crispatum (coontail) – oxygenating
Ceratophyllum demersum (hornwort) – oxygenating
Typha angustifolia (lesser reedmace)
Iris pseudoacorus (yellow flag iris)
Hydrocharis morsus-ranae (frogbit) – similar to water lilly
Myosotis scorpioides (water forget-me-not)
Mentha aquatica (water mint)
Lythrum salicaria (purple loosestrife)
Caltha palustris (marsh marigold)
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