When you discuss tartan used to make kilts, the term 'sett size' comes up a lot. A sett is basically one unit of a tartan's pattern. The sett is what gets repeated over and over both widthwise and lengthwise to produce the pattern of the cloth. Every tartan is recorded in terms of its sett.

In this clip, Rocky explains why you may find larger or smaller setts in cloth coming from different mills, or even in different cloths from the same mill.

The bottom line - it's all about averages and a sort of "10 foot rule." The tartan needs to be recognizable when viewed from a few feet away. While tartan setts are recorded using a code called 'thread count" when it comes to actually weaving cloth, the thread count may change quite a bit depending on what the weaver is making. So long as each line of color is in the correct proportion to all the other color lines around it in the sett pattern, the result will work and be recognizable as the tartan.

Interestingly, mistakes in executing sett size is one of the ways new tartans have evolved over the years. Rather than throw away a bolt of cloth, weavers have always preferred to rename the tartan so they can still sell it to someone who likes how the mistake looks! Same goes for color issues.



Our tartans in this video:
Rocky: Celtic Nations
Erik: Philly Police & Fire
Mac: Longford County Crest



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