Shoyu is a Japanese-style soy sauce. Made by fermenting both soybeans and wheat using koji mould (aspergillus oryzae), it tends to be sweeter and lighter compared to Chinese soy sauces. By many accounts, soy sauce fermented from scratch tends to be more complex in flavour than those commercially available. I've been intrigued by the prospect of being able to make my own. Here is part one of this journey that will likely take six months to a year.
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- Ingredients -
Dry soybeans - 600g
Soft wheat berries - 600g
Koji mould (a. oryzae or a. sojae) spores bred for soy sauce* - enough for 2.5 kg of substrate
15% saltwater brine - at 15%, 176g of salt is needed for 1000g of water. Amount needed depends on size of fermenting vessel and the amount of substrate used.
* There are specialized strains of koji mould bred for different purposes. Koji mould intended for making sake or miso would not work as well for soy sauce
- Directions -
1. Soak 600g of dry soybeans in clean water for 8 to 12 hours. Once hydrated, cook the soybeans until very soft and easily mashed using your fingers
2. Roast the wheat berries in the oven or on the stovetop until golden brown, with some berries starting to pop. Break up the roasted wheat berries into several smaller pieces using a food processor or other grinders. Sift out the wheat flour from the wheat berry pieces and set the flour aside.
3. Mix the cooked soybeans with the wheat. The mixture should be moist but not wet. Add cooking liquid from the soybeans if needed. Spread the soybean/wheat mixture out on several trays or dishes lined with moist, lint-free towels.
4. Mix the koji mould spores with the wheat flour according to package directions. Scatter the mixture evenly over the soybeans and wheat.
5. Cover the trays with plastic wrap and poke a few holes for air exchange. Set them up somewhere warm, such as in an oven with the light turned on with a tray of steaming water for humidity. You can also use specialised equipment like a proofing box.
6. As the koji mould grows over the next 48 hours, ensure the temperature of the soybean/wheat substrate stays between 32-36°C / 89-97°F. The mould will begin to sporulate at 38-40°C / 100-104°F and will die beyond that. Sporulated mould has a yellowish/greenish colour.
7. Once the mould has thoroughly covered the soybean/wheat substrate - becoming koji - it is ready to brine. In a well-cleaned vessel like a glass 2-gallon jug, add as much of the koji as desired, and then pour in the brine. Stir to mix thoroughly.
8. Over the first month, stir daily to ensure moulds and yeasts don't grow on the surface. Plastic wrap on the surface of the liquid can help reduce exposure. The walls and lid of the jar can be wiped down with vinegar.
9. The mixture - now known as moromi - will need to ferment for the next 6 months to a year. I'll be reporting back on the progress!
Useful references:
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Koji Alchemy by Rich Shih and Jeremy Umansky
- Music -
Aakash Gandhi - White River
Aakash Gandhi - Sea of Memory
Aakash Gandhi - Twinkle in the Night
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