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Pretty much any chef today—and many home cooks—is well-aware of sous vide cooking and its precise temperatures. When Chef of the Century Joël Robuchon and scientist Bruno Goussault presented sous vide at the 2007 StarChefs International Chefs Congress, the technique was only just becoming popularized. 2005 was a big year for sous vide: Alinea opened in Chicago with sous vide dishes on the menu, Sous-Vide Cuisine by Joan Roca i Fontané and Salvador Brugués Fontané went to print, and the French Culinary Institute began offering a low-temperature cooking class. Forward-thinkers were on top of the movement, but most chefs didn’t know how to use a thermal circulator and weren’t planning to invest in one. During the demo two years later, Robuchon showed that, if done properly, sous vide wouldn’t wilt or decolorize spinach, could cook an egg to a fraction of a degree, and could properly prepare squab and foie gras at once. Robuchon said he preferred simple cooking, though it’s usually more difficult, and this style allowed him to achieve perfect simplicity. To the audience’s surprise, he predicted that additives such as xanthan gum and agar agar would disappear. Although molecular gastronomy hasn’t faded like the late chef expected, sales of sous vide equipment have been on the rise.
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