How to replace the spark plugs on a third generation Dodge Ram 1500 5.7L V8 Hemi. This engine requires 16 spark plugs, two for each cylinder. Worn spark plugs will typically cause poor performance, poor fuel economy, hard starts, and engine misses.#OEMTOOLS #DodgeRam #Mopar

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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-3/8" drive ratchet
-3/8" 3" & 6" extensions
-3/8" universal joint
-16 new spark plugs
-10mm and 5/8" sockets
-standard screwdriver or small pry tool
-penetrating oil

Chapters:
00:00 Intro
01:00 Driver's Side
03:44 Spark Plug Socket
04:19 Installing the New Spark plugs
04:42 Dealing with Seized Spark Plugs
05:51 Passenger Side
07:49 More Info On Removing Seized Spark Plugs
09:49 Reassembly

Procedure:
On driver side first was removing the electrical connectors on all the coil packs. Depress the tang on one side, then using a small pry tool or standard screwdriver, gently pry up the connector and remove. The wire to each connector is short so you can’t mix up their positions.

Remove the coil packs. Each coil pack is held in with two 10 mm bolts. Then pull out the coil pack. Each of the plug boots will have a seal around the plastic valve cover. These bolts don’t need to be fully removed from the coil pack just enough where they’re disconnected from the valve cover.

Vacuum cleaner is used to clean up any loose debris so it doesn’t fall down the holes. If your engine is excessively dirty that a vacuum cleaner would be recommended before removing the coil packs and after.

Finally are the last two coil packs on the driver side. The 3/8 drive ratchet with 10 mm can be used here too. For the very last coil pack with the bolt closest to the firewall, a 10 mm wrench may be easier. Both coil packs are lifted up to the top of the engine and can have the spark plugs boots bent giving you more movement.

Using a 5/8” deep socket for spark plugs, this has a rubber boot inside to remove and install the spark plugs. The first few plugs can be accessed with a 6 inch extension and a 3/8 drive ratchet. I was working one cylinder at a time removing the two plugs.

Install the new spark plugs, the torque specifications for the spark plugs are 13 ft-lbs or 18 Nm. If you are gapping the spark plugs, the required measurement is 0.045” or 1.14mm.

The last three plugs on this side are where I ran into the issue of them being seized. To overcome this, I put the truck back together and it took up for a drive up the road to get the engine up to full operating temperature. Once back I then remove the coil packs and applied penetrating oil around each spark plug. I then tried to loosen each spark plug. Any oil around the plug would soak into the threads. The plugs are also loosened and tightened to help work the oil into the threads and break away any debris. Do not force the plugs as you can damage the threads, if that is the case, you’ll be required to install a Heli coil.

To gain access to the spark plugs below the brake booster, I used my 3/8 drive ratchet with a 3 inch extension, a universal joint, and finally the deep socket.

On the passenger side, I was required to remove the colder intake. I did this more for viewing purposes than anything. If you have a factory airbox then you may be required to remove it.

Use the same processes on the other side, almost all the spark plugs on this side can be accessed with the 5/8” deep socket, the 6 inch extension, and the 3/8 drive ratchet. The very last spark plug requires the 3 inch drive ratchet with a 3 inch extension, the universal joint, and the deep socket.

Reinstall each of the coil packs. Tighten the 10mm bolts, and the torque specifications for the 10mm bolts are 62 in-lbs, not to be confused with ft-lbs or 7 Nm. Reassembly of components is in reverse of removal.

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