How to set up an African Cichlid Aquarium

THE WATER
All African Cichlids should be kept in water with a pH of 7.5-9.0, a water hardness from 10-20 dH, and a temperature between 25-28°C.

The actual ranges of theAfricanRiftLakesare:

Lake Tanganyika — 7.8-9.0

Lake Malawi — 7.4-8.4

Lake Victoria — 7.2-8.6

Naturally, these values are always approximations, because ranges in nature often fluctuate and may thus be more or less, but the values stated above have been found to be best tolerated by Cichlids in aquaria.

The native waters of the African Cichlids is also very hard, containing many dissolved minerals and salts.

Since all African Cichlids appreciate this higher pH, these are one of the few fish species whose aquariums may be decorated (or supplemented) with coral and shells, which normally push the pH of a freshwater aquarium above most fishes’ natural ranges. In some instances, it may, however, still be necessary to buffer water to reach these higher pH levels. There are many suitable commercial “Cichlid Buffers” on the market which can be used. Many of these manufacturers also offer “Cichlid Salts” and “Trace Elements”. We recommend using both the salts and trace elements, as fish which are kept in water containing them often exhibit superior coloration — simply because they are in water which more exactly recreates their natural conditions.

THE AQUARIUM
The next thing to consider is the aquarium itself. Because of their nature, Cichlids ideally should be housed in large tanks! How large? As large as you can possibly afford! When choosing the size and shape of a Cichlid aquarium, it is important to remember: the larger the capacity and the more surface area (length x width), the greater becomes the selection of Cichlids you could choose from. Larger tanks are also more easily stabilised and kept stable that smaller tanks. In addition, larger tanks provide more space for individual territories, which means fewer losses due to aggression. Tank width always takes precedence over depth, simply because a greater width allows for more — and strategically better placed — rock structures.

The cichlid aquarium also needs to be over-filtered, not only because Cichlids are greedy feeders and heavy excreters, especially of urine, but also because, unlike the slow, but constant fresh food supply in nature, feeding in aquaria takes place in short bursts, creating conditions which require higher filtration. Take care to choose a filter that helps create flow, but NOT any heavy current in your tank. Aeration is equally important in a Cichlid aquarium, because Cichlids require well oxygenated water.

THE DECOR
As far as tank décor is concerned, a cichlid tank must have rock structures suited to the nature of the specific species kept. I cannot emphasise enough how important a properly structured habitat is to Cichlids. However large the tanks we choose may be, they remain minuscule in comparison to the natural habitat available to Cichlids in the wild! If you really stopped to let this point sink in, it must be obvious why most Cichlid keepers have such a struggle with in-tank aggression!


THE SUBSTRATE
All Cichlid tanks should have a sand substrate, foremost because this most closely mimics their natural habitat and makes them feel secure. In my opinion, bare-bottom tanks accommodate people, but never the wellbeing of the fish! However, there are many other reasons why a sand substrate is ideal. Many Cichlids naturally feed by grazing through the sand – for example Fossorochromis rostratus, and Placidochromis electra. Many Cichlids take sand into their mouths and seem to spit it out; however science postulates that some sand is indeed ingested as a dietary aid, as sand is often found in the digestive tract of scientifically examined Cichlids. Also, some Cichlids cleanse their gills by taking in sand and expelling it through their gills, while others dive into, or build their nests in sand. Thirdly, sand is an egg-safe substrate when female mouth-brooders need to pick up and tumble their eggs.

свернуть