Tim Mosso's "Watches Tonight" tackles the watches that shaped the watch world and recent trends in the luxury watch industry. From the 2021 Tudor Black Bay 925 in sterling silver to the 2021 Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711, Tim is charting the changes that are driving watch buyers for the 2021 model year. Moreover, tonight's primary focus highlights landmark watch models like the Longines Legend Diver dive watch and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore chronograph.
First, Tim takes a look at three trends that are driving luxury watch buyers in 2021. The first is green dials. From the 2021 Rolex Oyster Perpetual to the 2021 Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711, new watches with green dials are everywhere this year. Second, precious metal silver watches are becoming a thing. From brands as small as Ochs Und Junior to major watchmakers like Zenith and Tudor, sterling silver is having a breakout moment. Of particular note is the 2021 Tudor Black Bay 925, a vintage watch aesthetic with modern automatic movement, a taupe dial, and a case designed specifically not to tarnish.
The Longines Legend Diver arrived at Baselworld 2007 and immediately became one of the most influential watches of the modern era. Although others -- notable Omega, Vacheron, and Longines itself -- had launched re-editions and historical homage watches, the Legend Diver arrived immediately before the start of a two-decade trend in watch design.
If Longines was too far ahead of its time with the initial 1987 Lindbergh 60th anniversary watch, the 2007 Legend Diver arrived at the perfect time to create a frenzy.
Within months of the Longines Legend Diver, a raft of similar watches exploded onto the market. The original 1960s Longines employed the "Super Compressor" dive watch case shared by many others on the market. In 2008, Jaeger LeCoultre and IWC issued versions of their "Super Compressor" tribute watches in the mold of Longines.
Others brands were less direct, but the inspiration from Longines clearly drove designers at Oris and Tudor watch headquarters to revisit 1960s diving designs. It's fair to say that the Tudor Black Bay and the Oris Divers SixtyFive would not exist today without the 2007 Legend Diver. In that sense, even the 2021 Tudor Black Bay 925 sterling silver owes a debt of gratitude to Longines for establishing beyond a doubt that vintage watch designs in modern packaging could provide years worth of profits to a watch brand.
The 1993 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore chronograph was equally influential. Its oversized case, aggressive style, and compatibility with casual straps inspired innumerable other watch models in the luxury sports watch marketplace.
The 1996 Vacheron Constantin Overseas was driven in part by AP's aggressive embrace of the haute horologerie sports watch segment. That said, the 2004 second generation of the Vacheron Overseas drew directly upon the size, proportions, and style of the Royal Oak Offshore; the two watches nearly were body doubles.
Patek Philippe also took note of Audemars Piguet's aggressively casual style. While the 1997 Patek Philippe Aquanaut didn't rival the Royal Oak Offshore for size, there was no mistaking the subtle nod to Les Brassus in Patek's first-ever use of a rubber strap on a sports watch.
Others were more direct; the 2004 Hublot Big Bang was a thinly veiled Royal Oak Offshore doppelgänger calculated to offer watch buyers 80 percent of Audemars' design at 70 percent of the price. It was not subtle, and there is no doubt that the Hublot Big Bang would not exist without the trailblazing AP Royal Oak Offshore chronograph of 1993.
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