This is one of those knives I desperately want to love! Hence all the modifications. I think now I’ve gotten it to that point.. I am not certain why knife manufacturers feel they need to do some of the oddball things that they do to knives. The only thing that should be sharp on the knife is the edge. When things like thumb jumping, finger guards, and annoying protruding things coming out of the butt hurt your hand, the likelihood of you continually using the is greatly diminished. I’m not saying all knives should have rubber handles, but nicely contoured and rounded handles certainly do not create hotspots, and subtle and rounded finger guards are much more comfortable than something pointy. Pointy may look really cool, but ultimately a knife is supposed to function. And when the edge comes in so darn thick that when you try to baton through some wood in the blade bounces back out, you know you have to thick an edge.
I Scandivexed the blade 100% by hand, I did not use the slack belt grinder because I wanted to have absolute control over the thickness of the edge. This is my only 154CM knife and my first stainless one from Tops, so I am not certain as to just how tough the edge is. I know if it was the 1095 version go much thinner like I did on the Fieldcraft 3.5.
This is my video about the Fieldcraft 3.5 I referenced above.
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Here is the video where I teach you how to Scandivex a knife blade.
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Here is a video where I do the same sort of thing to my Gerber Strongarm:
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And if you are into modifications, this one about my Randall Model 3-5 should be interesting:
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