In this video I discuss a little about the Ford 4.6 Aluminum Teksid engine block. I go over how I like to prep the engine block before and after it goes to the machine shop. After editing I realized I missed a lot so here are some added notes.
About the block: they were made in Italy, can be used in 2000+ hp applications, about 75 lbs vice 150 lbs cast iron block, found in 90’s Mark VIII and 96-01 Mustang Cobras, and can be used with 2, 3, or 4 valve OHC heads (Coyote 5.0 heads will not fit).
Before it goes to the machine shop for bore/deck/hone here is what I prefer to do:
-One of the first things to look at is to make sure it hasn’t spun a main bearing. You can do this by making sure there is cross hatching on the mains.
-Clean/scrape the majority of the dirt and grime (it doesn’t need to be perfect, your machine shop should use a hot tank after machining).
-Modify the block if needed (grind off knock sensor bungs and/or drill coolant passage).
-Remove freeze plugs and oil gallery plugs.
-Remove water pump bypass from valley of the engine block.
-Make sure you bag the jack screws on the side of the block.
-Before you remove the main caps, make sure the factory markings are visible and keep them in order. You can either send the block with all the main caps or with just the front a rear. Either way, make sure they are clearly marked so they don’t get mixed up.
-Make sure the machine shop has torque plates. These engines should be final honed with them!
When it comes back from the machine shop here is what I like to do:
-Blow off the engine paying special attention to the oil passages and bolt holes.
-Chase head bolt/stud threads and then blow them out again.
-Clean and coat the cylinders with ATF. I recommend Kimtech, low lint, aviation cleaning wipes when working with engines.
If you have questions or comments please let me know.
