In the previous video [ Ссылка ] , we raised/ increased the cap height. This video shows how to ensure the new sleeve fits into the pattern.
What are our options?
1.) We can lower the armhole, making it bigger.
And/or
2.) We can slash out in several areas reducing the sleeve measurement to fit in the armhole.
3.) Always compare the reverse curve of the sleeve to the body armhole curve up to the notch. This distance and shape should be similar. More than likely, if the cap height is too low, the sleeve reverse curve is too wide.
4.) Adjust as needed making the sleeve the same as the armhole. (Or sleeve 3/8” bigger for woven materials)
5.) Refit and make sure that cap width didn’t get too small.
6.) The sleeve opening can be slashed out instead of/or in addition to/ the underarm seam reducing.
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You may find that, in some cases, you can’t add as much cap height as you want. At some point, you need to get that sleeve to fit a reasonable armhole size while still having enough cap width to move.
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The big thing to remember: any time we make an adjustment on one piece, we need to adjust other pieces to fit. Always ‘control’ your pattern, checking that all seams match together for measurements.
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See more videos and learn more about pattern corrections in The Fitting Book. Get your digital copy here:
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Part one of this video is: [ Ссылка ]
Enroll in the FREE Patternmaking Mini-Course today and learn the difference between a moulage and a sloper: [ Ссылка ]
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