São Nicolau island - Cabo Verde: octobre 2021

Story:

Remote, exotic, majestic and mystical: these are words that describe the Capeverdean island of São Nicolau. The island is not easy to reach. Ferries only pass a few times a week and are not always reliable. Our time was severely limited on the island due to the boat's schedule. However, two full days were enough to confirm to me that this was my favourite island in the archipelago.

São Nicolau is perhaps best known due to Cesaria Evora's most famous song "Sodade", which describe the long road from São Nicolau to the island of São Tomé to escape drought and poverty. The islands' history of emigration is also still very present here today and you will find many references on the island to, for example, The Netherlands.
The island's trademark however is unmistakenly formed by its remoteness and exoticness, namely the dragon tree. São Nicolau is one of those remote islands which like Socotra between Yemen and East Africa lay claim to the highest amount or concentration of dragon trees. These extremely rare, prehistoric trees, which can grow over 650 years old, are to be seen here plenty on the island, especially slightly higher up in the greener parts of the mountains. They are a fascinating sight in this surreal, Jurrasic like environment.

São Nicolau has more to offer however. Overshadowed by the island of Santo Antão which boasts superlatives as the wettest, greenest, steepest, most dramatic in nature etc., São Nicolau is an island which does not underscores. Dramatic and steep volcanic mountains doom up in the landscape, carving out both pleasant and luxurant green, fertile valleys as well as deep, volcanic canyons. Everything grows in between, from sugarcane to corn, papaya trees, mangoes and various other vegetables and fruits. Sturdy but very friendly farmers take care of these lands which are cultivated organically. The mountains below Monte Gordo, which has the highest peak of the island with 1312m altitude, capture the clouds coming from the Atlantic covering the lands in a sea of clouds. This benefits well the cloud forests below Monte Gordo, which might perhaps be the most beautiful forest in all of Cabo Verde with its exotic, out of this world nature. On the south side where clouds cannot enter, dry Mars landscapes dominate. From the mountain tops, you can easily admire the dramatic contrasts on the island.

Furthermore, São Nicolau also boasts one of Cabo Verde's most beautiful old towns. Ribeira Brava, the old capital of the island, is where the island's relatively modest elite settled during the long Portuguese colonial period. Beautiful town houses with iron balconies and a small church reflect a relative wealth in which was largely a very poor and mostly neglected colony. Between the houses, which show some similar architectural influences from Madeira and the Canary Islands, the winding cobble stone streets become very lively during working hours. People perform business, socialize, work, rest and hassle among them. The town also gives a well maintained impression. It is a true hidden gem that with its historic heritage adds well to the character, appeal and charm of the island.

In addition, the island also boasts a dramatic coastline, with the Atlantic sea violently assaulting the steep mountainous cliffs. Ancient roads lead to abandoned villages hidden in canyons, like Ribeira Funda. Arriving there in this other world must have arose similar feelings to those conquistadores discovering El Dorado. Deep in the valleys, where you can only sometimes reach through dangerous mountain paths, isolated communities are still maintaining a tough living.

Finally, São Nicolau is also those places we did not manage to visit. Beautiful white and black sandy beaches, from Baixo Rocha to Carriçal, and rock formations at Juncalinho and Carbeirinho. More greenery and valleys are to be explored around Fragatta and Ribeira das Patas, and more historical heritage is to be found in the small port hamlet of Preguiça. São Nicolau is a very diverse island within Cabo Verde, a place which I will need to visit again.

Credits:
- Filming and editing: Caspar Tromp (DJI Pocket 2)
- Drone shots and adventure companion: Malte Drummen (DJI Mavic Air 2)
- Music: Bau - Jaílza

See also my analog photography album of São Nicolau:
[ Ссылка ]

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