My successful Solo no supplemental oxygen summit climb of Mount Lhotse, with 8516m the fourth highest mountain in the world.
Did you ever wonder how it is possible to climb 8000ers without supplmental oxygen? They magic formula is: Time, Time, Time and once again Time! We are human beings and not machines. You cant speed up the process of acclimatization, but be gentle and patient and give your body enough time to adept. There are so many processes happening at once, the pressure in our cavities is changing, our cell composition is changing and adapting, the amount of water and water usage of our body is readjusting, the amount of red blood cells / hemaglobin is changing, our lungs are adapting their oxygen capacity and many more things we dont even understand yet are all happening at the same time.

So we need a lot of time to adept to these extreme altitudes with their low atmospheric pressure. Once you reached a good base acclimatization you can improve your acclimatization by putting some stress on your cardio vascular system with trail runs and exercises at high altitude. After that you can start your rotations to higher camps which I will explain in the next video!

This video shows how I trained, prepared and how much time I spend up there in order to successfully climb Lhtose 2 Months later!

Your Norrdine NouarLast year I successfully climbed Lhotse, with 8516m meters the fourth highest mountain on the planet right next to Mount Everest. On summit day the 21st of May 2023, I was completely alone and by myself in the couloir, I did not see a singe soul that day, had the summit all for myself and it felt like a real solo, on top of that I was the only climber to summit Lhotse without oxygen in that year. This mountain is often called Everests little brother and kinda unknown to most people. Lhotse shares the same identical route with mount Everest all the way up to Camp 4 at 7700 meters. Your Basecamp is Everest Basecamp, you have to climb through the Khumbu Icefall to Camp 1 and 2 as if you would climb Everest. To reach Camp 3 at 7100 meters you have to climb the incredibly huge and steep Lhotse face together with the Everest contenders and climb across the Yellow Band. To reach the summit you have to climb through the Lhotse couloir, a very steep and 800meter long line of, rock, ice and snow. Lhotse is one of the big five and therefore extremely challenging and exhausting to reach without supplemental oxygen!
It was my very first 8000er experience and I did not know how my body would react in the death zone at all! To be completely honest with you I was scared and frightened to the bone to enter the Death Zone, since I heard so many stories and I knew so many non oxygen climbers died there, suffer HAPE or HACE and just disappear forever.
Because of that I trained and prepared like a mad man! I did not want to leave any room for errors or chances, so I made sure to have the possibly best acclimatization I could get! That is why I already traveled up to the Solo Khumbu in the beginning of March and started my acclimatization phase. My primary goal was to spend as much time there as possible so my body can adapt slowly. I read a lot about the human physiology and acclimatization and how to prepare for it. I stumbled across Ueli Stecks and David Göttlers strategy to train and Trail Run at 4000 and 5000 meters, to strengthen the cardiovascular system and to acclimatize even more. So I copied their strategy and did the same!

This video shows the beginning of my acclimatization in the Solo Khumbu and how I spend my time in Mount Everest Basecamp!

This is my successful climb of Lhotse 8516m, the fourth highest mountain on the planet right next to Mount Everest solo withou oxygen in 2023.
This is my very first 8000er I attempt after 13 years of preperation and intense solo experiences as a mountaineer.
In this video I will show you my acclimatization phase before I even approach the mountain and the basecamp. I will take you from Kathmandu to Lukla, Namche Bazaar and across the Three passes trek to all the tiny little villages and towns. I take you along with me over the Three Passes namely Ranjo La Pass, Cho La Pass and Kongma La Pass.

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