“” Initially, the formal nave of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs seemed like a counterintuitive, though obviously not unpleasant, venue for the Y-3 show. Yet as the lineup advanced through nylon pieces that expressed airy volumes and unrestricted movement, the vastness became a more fitting foil. The two final looks consisted of huge, logo-scrawled skirts that billowed in the manner of sails or parachutes. They were worn with athletic tops and sneakers, and in the right circumstances, they could end up on a red carpet or even at a sport-themed wedding.

Far more so than in recent seasons, this collection aligned Yohji Yamamoto’s ongoing pursuit of “air between the body” with Adidas’s expertise in innovative materials. And both parties, in a brief interview together, expressed mutual admiration of the results. Yamamoto’s impressions: “It’s a closer sense of my design; it’s nice,” followed by Adidas vice president of global design Nic Galway’s: “Yohji’s way of cutting—we simply couldn’t do that by ourselves.” The show notes pointed out that such emphasis on lightness was in the service of practicality—from packing to performing—over aesthetics.

Y-3 benefits from ateliers in both Tokyo and Germany, which means that while one might be testing tech cotton and Shakedry, apparently the lightest Gore-Tex to date, the other could be working through the proportions of the season’s extra-wide-leg pant or the gradient colorations of green and red. Proportions felt well resolved (tight tops with ample bottoms, for example), while looks were styled up with relevance (utility harnesses and belt bags).

Sneakers were just as likely to represent a leap forward (introducing the aerodynamic Raito Racer, Kaiwa, Ren, and Y-3 Runner 4D styles) as an intentional step back (the cool Kasabaru courtside kicks). But how do an international sneaker chief and a fashion maverick contend with the explosion of high-impact options elsewhere? Yamamoto seemed ambivalent. “I don’t care; we just focus on what is real,” he said. “Sneakers today can be very scary, like monsters.” ’Tis true. Hence the collection’s strongest elements revisited classic Y-3 ideas that Yamamoto seems to be rediscovering, whether the low-slung suspender skirts, blousons draped over jumpsuits, or the new illustrated skull logo combined with the signature stacked triple stripe. “When I’m walking in the street and I look around the city, ordinary fashion has become so boring; sporty fashion has become so fashionable,” he said. “This gets my motivation up.””

- Amy Verner
Vogue Magazine
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Y-3 SS19 Runway Show
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