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After you’ve taken a lifecast of a performer, you have a solid copy of their face.

This is presumably an accurate copy which has recorded the surface of their anatomy as true as is possible. Are we to then leap straight to the joyous distraction of making your modifications – making the nose bigger, changing the chin, adding a wound or a scar, or completely remodelling their face to change them entirely?

It is worth taking a moment to recall this original cast you took of the performer is a precious object – it is the only one you have and presumably it was gained at great cost. Drop it and we’ve had it! Now you have this perfect head shape, it is time to make a master mould (usually in silicone) to allow copies to be made.

Now we can produce multiple versions in a harder plaster for sculpts to be floated/separated off at a later date or make lightweight versions for attaching finished appliances to for painting or shipping (air freight is rather expensive, you know!). Three people can sculpt different appliances on the same nose simultaneously. A copy can be sent to the performer as a gift, and we could even test makeups by applying to a copy of the head without the cost of booking the performer to thrash out paint schemes and best approach.


This video takes a look at one way to make a master mould. Obviously, techniques vary and no two moulds get made the exact same way so I present to you here a typical process I would use for a master mould in silicone.

** Materials List **
Clay - Water Based grey pottery clay
Silicone- Dow Corning 3481 Tin based silicone with 'Fast' catalyst
Silicone pigments- Available usually from same place as silicone
Fabric - Jute scrim or burlap
Plaster- Crystacal R (a slower setting alpha plaster similar (ish) to Ultracal 30
Key Mould- PVC U-shaped channel edging (hardware store)
Release spray- Spray wax release 'MacWax'
Brushes- Disposable 'chip' or laminating brushes


Thanks for watching!


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