These bushings come out surprisingly easy using only a simple drill and screw driver. The trick is to simply crack the plastic collar at one point, then the whole bushing collapses. Please be aware that some subframe bolts get stuck and can break (nasty)
Before removing the old bushing, be sure to mark the way it's oriented - scratch the subframe where the bushing has two notches, the new bushing must have the two notches exactly at same place: this makes sure the rubber reinforcement inside the bushing is pointing to the sides of the car - important (these bushings act sideways)
To install a new bushing, round a bit with sand paper the two metal edges pointing downwards of the each of the subframe metal layers (these are sharp and 'grab on the bushing plastic'. Smear the bushing plastic with a bit of grease. Place bushing with the correct rotation (important) and use the bolt with the large metal washer with 4 nuts (see pics in the forum link) to drive the bushing in place - do NOT push on the 4 rubber bumps under the bushing, push only between the rubber tabs. Do not apply excessive force on the bolt and don't use impact - it may crack the bushing plastic. If it feels it needs too much torque on the bolt, tap gently upwards around the metal plate with a hammer. Consult this forum discussion for more tips (not my pictures) [ Ссылка ]
Warning: always inspect your subframe bolts. Sometimes these are stuck, and a few people did break these while forcing to remove them - major problem. You need to use a 2 ft breaker bar and 1/2 drive socket but if it feels stuck, better stop and not take a chance. These bolts typically must be replaced (stretch type), especially if you forced to remove them. Torque is 77 ft-lb + 120° (new bolt), the two 14mm on the rear plate are 37 ft-lb. To give you an idea what may happen, have a look at this rusted bolt picture [ Ссылка ]
