In this video, Bob Paulinski, Master of Wine will taste and evaluate a 50 year old (1973) CVNE Imperial Gran Reserva, one of the top wines in my cellar and one of the great, iconic wines from Spain.
While its very unlikely you’ll find this exact wine, but it’ll give you some indication of what a top-notch, well cellared Gran Reserva can offer. Keep in mind, a wine labeled Gran Reserva pertains to meeting aging requirements, its not necessarily a testament to quality, as that will vary by producer.
Gran Reservas Riojas that are worth searching out with approx SRP (US). At present time look for the 2015 or 2016. My preference is to the 2016, but just by the slightest bit. posted below are the standout that I've recently tasted:
2016 CVNE Imperial Gran Reserva $85
2016 Marques de Riscal Gran Reserva $45
2016 El Coto Coto de Imaz Gran Reserva $34 (good value!)
2016 Campo Viejo Gran Reserva $23 (not as complex as the others, but a great value, relatively easy to find)
2015 Muga Prado Enea Gran Reserva $90
2015 Marques Murietta Gran Reserva $79
2015 Contino Gran Reserva $69
Located in Haro, in the heart of Rioja, CVNE has been owned by the same family for over 100 years, This is one of the older Riojas that I’ve tasted, maybe the oldest. I like to cellar away wines and usually know how I acquired the wine, along with the original cost. With this one, I’m not sure. I don’t have the original price and there is no import sticker on the bottle.
In terms of the vintage, ‘73 is a mixed bag for the region. About 10% of the Rioja from that year was made into Gran Reserva that year, which is higher than the norm. Based on that alone, there were plenty of very good examples from that year.
This fruit is sourced from the prime region of the Rioja Alta, old vines, low yields, bush pruned and dry farmed. Mostly Tempranillo, with a small amount of Graciano and Mazuelo. Graciano brings structure, Mazuelo, same as Carignan, adds acidity, weight and some spiciness. This wine was aged in oak for 2 years, then a minimum of 3 years in bottle prior to release.
With old wines, there are a few recommendations prior to opening the bottle. Here’s a few pointers on what to check prior to opening an old bottle of wine
1) Stand the bottle upright for a day or two prior to allow any sediment to settle into the base.
2) Check the fill level. The wine level will drop with aging, ideally the fill level should be in the neck of the bottle. This one is in the lower part of it. Quite amazing for being 50 years old.
3) The cork should feel firm, showing no sign of leaking.
4) Point a bright light up into the base of the bottle to gauge the amount of sediment.
To open the bottle, I’m going to use a two-prong (ah=so) cork extractor. Sometimes with older wines, the cork can be soft and crumbly. The two prong is the safest option. Wipe the lip of the bottle with a damp cloth, I use a bit of lemon juice as well, something acidic helps to clear any residue. Decades ago, it was common that the capsule would contain some lead. In the 1980's the use was banned and phased out.
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