he Old Quarter in Hanoi is an intriguing neighbourhood, home to a mix of Vietnamese architecture, green spaces, ancient shops and fresh-as-it-gets street food — all of it easily explored on foot.
At first look, these 36 streets can feel frenetic. Don't worry: Constant motion is part of the Old Quarter's charm. Grab a seat at a cafe and enjoy the action from a safe distance. You'll notice bicycle vendors selling fresh flowers and ripe fruit, old friends gathering for games of checkers, and cooks doing a roaring trade in steaming phở and bún chả. The longer you wander, the more you’ll be rewarded with moments in hidden alleyways, secluded pagodas, and cosy coffee shops.
Here are some of the best ways to appreciate the Old Quarter’s lively atmosphere and secret spots.

Shops pouring into sidewalks, motorcycles navigating narrow streets, the smell of noodles and flowers —the Old Quarter can be a hectic place. Begin your foray by hopping on a cyclo for a guided tour through the chaos. Once the main form of transport in Hanoi, cyclos move at the perfect pace for you to take in interesting street scenes without having to worry about traffic and navigation. After this gentle introduction, pick a few streets to tackle on foot.

Ô Quan Chưởng Gate is the only gate left of the wall that once protected the area surrounding Thang Long Citadel, not far away. The gate as you see it was re-constructed in 1817, although originally it was built in 1749. The gate is named for the rank of a Vietnamese soldier who showed great courage in defending the gate and citadel against a French attack in 1873. Today, it's an important marker and symbol of Vietnamese spirit.

Wherever you go, you’ll have a chance to glimpse the tube houses that are typical of the Old Quarter. These houses have narrow facades, but are built deep and high, with multiple courtyards to allow light inside. Also interesting are the Soviet-influenced apartment blocks, which you can find up and down Hàng Điếu st. If you have time, you can look into the Old Quarter's most recent attraction: Train Street. Tiny cafes and stationery stores have moved into the buildings facing the tracks, and countless Instagrammers come every day to have their pictures taken with this colourful backdrop.

People in Hanoi have a favourite invitation that goes, “đi một vòng hồ” (let’s go for a ride around the lake.) The lake is, of course, Hoàn Kiếm. This green body of water is nestled in the core of urban Hanoi, and is an ideal hangout spot throughout the day, but especially in the early morning and late afternoons.

In the hours just before sunrise, joggers collect around the lake’s leafy banks, men and women move slowly through tai chi routines, and friends gather in circles for games of hacky-sack. In the evenings the scene is much the same. Couples join the crowd and sit on benches around the water’s edge, nibbling on green mango and sipping tea.
The Old Quarter is chock-full of speciality restaurants and popular stalls that have been around for years. On Hoàn Kiếm street you’ll find nộm bò khô, a dish of beef jerky and papaya topped with crunchy peanuts. There are many versions of chè (Vietnamese dessert), but locals flock to Chè Bốn Mùa restaurant for its version of lotus seed and black jelly sweet soup.

If you’re hungry, grab a bowl of bún chả at Bún Chả Hương Liên where President Obama dined, or go for a less crowded alternative at Hàng Quạt. One thing Hanoians love to do is spend hours at coffee shops, just people-watching and sharing news. Don’t leave without sampling the original egg coffee at Cafe Giang. Apart from egg coffee, another original dish from the Old Quarter dish is chả cá lá vông. The dish originated in Lá Vông restaurant and is a magical blend of fish chunks marinated in turmeric and spices, grilled and served with soft rice noodles, dill and crunchy peanuts.
After dark, the Old Quarter puts work to the side and gets down to the serious business of having fun. There’s something to satisfy everyone within these 36 fascinating streets. Just before sundown, ride the elevator up to Diamond Sky Bar, a breezy spot with panoramic views of the Old Quarter. For a well-mixed cocktail, try the menu at Polite Co., or snag a premium gin and tonic with a view of St. Joseph Cathedral at The Mad Botanist.

свернуть