ZUHAIR MURAD Fall 2017 Haute Couture Paris - Fashion Channel

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Compared to his last haute couture collection, which was a blitz of ’80s glitz, this offering came across as relatively restrained and romantic (needless to say, Murad’s creations remain seeped in opulence).

His interpretations of fin de siècle silhouettes, Edwardian inflections, and Art Nouveau decoration meant that models assumed a more cultivated air, and if this sounds like a pretentious observation, at least it conveys his break with what came before.

At the start, you see the black-and-white grouping benefiting from velvet, fluid beadwork, and high-contrast botanical embroidery.

But he quickly moved on from this sharp register for a softer rollout of a muted palette, with diaphanous gowns covered in tonal surface detail, and all those nature motifs shone like diamonds (or, at least, extra-luminous crystal).

His nude effect seemed even more finessed than usual; it was nearly impossible to spot where the illusion ended and the body began.


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