Vintage in Pills YVES SAINT LAURENT Spring 2004 - Fashion Channel

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"It was woman as dandy," declared Tom Ford of the sinuous twenties and thirties feel he melded into satins and chiffons for YSL's Spring collection.

The designer narrowed and lengthened Saint Laurent's original boxy, hard-edged lines, opening with louchely draped powder-blue satin suits.

The jackets closed with wide hip fastenings over a new-shaped pant that was cut loose to the knee, then caught tight with rows of tiny covered buttons.

Ford's skew on House retro synthesized masculine and feminine elements: a low-belted, gold-buttoned trench was paired with rib-cuffed jog pants, while petaled jersey skirts flew out from under skintight black leather jackets.

Reruns of the classic smokings included tuxes, white vests, and mannish dressing gowns, cut floppy and liable to fall open at the breast at any moment.

Together with the major frizzed hairdos and sexy high-heeled spectator shoes in leather and canvas, it added up to a new silhouette for the tall, sexually-in-control woman Ford envisions as the spirit of modern YSL.


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