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Greetings, and welcome to the world of Jaeger-LeCoultre. Today I'll be your guide to the proper usage, care and maintenance of your Master Ultra-Thin perpetual. Though this is an automatic winding watch, nevertheless should it run down it can be manually wound by taking the crown in the first position flush to the case and turning it 20 to 30 turns in a clockwise direction. This should be sufficient to start the movement and you'll note the advance of the seconds hand across the dial. At this point you can set the time, set the date and the watch will continue to sustain itself using the case back winding mass and the kinetic energy of the wrist. But should you with to wind the watch to its maximum rated power reserve of 38 hours, simply continue turning the crown. The bridle style mainspring is designed to slip and relieve any excess tension, so you cannot accidentally overwind the watch. Listen for the subtle click or tick of the slipping bridle mainspring as your signal that you have completely wound the watch's power reserve.
The watch's calendar is set using the pusher adjuster at eight o'clock. When adjusting the date, the day advances. After adjusting the date a sufficient number of time, the month advances. Likewise, the moon phase, the year and the decade indication all advance in sync, meaning this is both a coordinated perpetual calendar for ease of setting. Everything advances correctly as per the calendar, but also that it is a sequential perpetual calendar. Given the year indication, you can't simply turn the calendar around 365 days if you set the watch too far ahead. Rather, if you accidentally set the watch too far ahea, you should keep the watch disused and stationary until such a time as the actual calendar, date, date, month has caught up with what you've set on the dial of your watch. Again, if you set the watch too far forward, do not start turning it backwards. Do not attempt to run the watch through a full year's cycle to catch back up to the correct day and date. Because of the year indication, this is not possible. You have to wait for the calendar to catch up with the watch. You have to leave the watch disused and stationary.
It's also important to note that you should not set the watch using the quick set adjuster for the calendar between the hours of 8PM and 4 AM, as this is the period during which the watch is automatically jumping all of the indications of the calendar. If you attempt to actuate the pusher adjuster during this period you will crash the movement and cause significant damage. Moreover, you should not turn the time backwards during this period, so take note. If you are traveling internationally between the hours of 8PM and 4AM and you're traveling West, do not start setting the watch backward, as this will also crash the mechanism.
There are a number of hazards with respect to luxury watch ownership that you should keep in mind, water, magnetism, and shock, of which water is by far the greatest concern. First, take note. Leather is a natural porous material, and though this watch is water resistant to five bar, leather is never water resistant and will degrade rapidly in the presence of moisture. So ensure the watch is on a water resistant strap or a bracelet prior to exposing it to moisture. Moreover, it's important to note that you can help avoid accidental drowning. Don't wind the watch or use any of the setting functions of the crown, or the pusher adjuster when the watch is submerged or even if there's only water on the case, as using these functions when the watch is wet can introduce water to the interior of the watch, to catastrophic cosmetic and mechanical consequences. Moreover, water resistance, unlike mechanical specification, is not a permanent feature of your watch and over time as seals age and lubricants dry, the watch will be relatively less water resistant. For this reason, Jaeger-LeCoultre recommends having your watch water tested at an authorized service center minimally every 12 months.
Ultimately, every mechanical watch needs a comprehensive mechanical service. During a comprehensive overhaul your watch's cosmetically reconditioned, it's water tight integrity is restored, and it's caliper, in this case Caliper 868 is entirely reconditioned by disassembling, cleaning, relubricating and regulating it for the most precise possible chronometric performance.
Finally, visit our website at govbergwatches.com and call, text or email. Our experts will be happy to walk you through every phase of the ownership and care of this, or any Jaeger-LeCoultre timepiece.
