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In this video I will be showing you how to remove a sand point well. I will also be covering how to install the sand point well back into the existing hole towards the end of the video. When we purchased this house, it had an old well point which wasn’t working. I’m not sure how long it’s been here for, at one point the house did use the water supply and I’d like to get it working again so it can be used for watering the grass.

In order to determine if yours has water present inside the pipe, once all the fittings have been remove, you can simply drop an old tape measure you don’t care much about inside to the bottom. When retracting, there should be water present on the tape. This piece of footage is from when the well was reinstalled.

As you can see sand point already sits inside a well, about 5ft deep. I purchased a small bottle jack with a 4 ton rating. It’s small enough to fit into tight spaces, but also strong enough to provide enough force to remove the sand point.

You’ll need to place the jack on something firm, I used a concrete block with a piece that did eventually break part was through the removal and I ended up using wood blocks after. I’m working with a sandy soil here.

Clamp on a good quality large cast iron pipe wrench and position it to the jack’s height. Now jack up the pipe, you’ll have to play around with the position so it’s not bending the pipe or pushing the pipe wrench off the jack.

Here’s a quick view of my setup. The well will lift out as far as the jack’s travel, then you’ll need to release the pressure, move the pipe wrench down, and then continue to jack up the pipe again. The jacks travel is only about 7 inches, so you’ll be lifting up the well 7” inches at a time. This can be a bit time consuming, after this well was remove, it was about 25ft in length. With the extremely hot days I was working in, it took me about 4hrs to completely remove the well.

During the remove, at times it may help to twist the sand point in the clockwise direction so you don’t risk the change of any fittings coming undone. This will help break up the material around the pipe incase it’s binding.

Part way through I came across the coupling, so I split the pipe down to make it more manageable. Make sure you have the pipe tied off so it doesn’t accidentally fall back into the ground. A couple tips on how to split down seized pipe fittings, I used a propane torque with wax which helped break it free easily.

About half way through the removal the pipe was becoming very loose, but not enough to pull it out by hand. However it was able to fall down easily, in order to overcome this, I fixed a c clamp to the side of the pipe and tied it off with a hold down straight.

Eventually I was able to lift it out by hand, while I did do this myself, a second set of hands would be helpful.

Seeing that the sand point was plugged with minerals and dirt, this will be cleaned which I’ll leave for another video. Once it was cleaned, it was then reinstalled.

Installation is fairly straight forward, I did use the same hole. I spoke with a local plumbing contractor, there are special hammer caps which are used to put the well into place but they recommended a coupling, I just had to take extra care when using this method. Couplings are much cheaper and you need to hit the coupling square so there’s minimal risk of damaging the threads on the pipe.

Install any pipe sections as needed.

Dropping the tape into the well point once it’s in place, you’ll want about four to five feet of water inside the well point to ensure it’s sufficiently in the water table.

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