September’s womenswear shows offered newsworthy moments (like Sabato de Sarno’s Gucci debut and Sarah Burton’s final bow at Alexander McQueen), strong statements (like Maria Grazia Chiuri’s meditation on women’s rights at Dior), and no shortage of desirable wardrobe options from Chanel to Saint Laurent to Courrèges. But a few runway moments stood out from the pack.
1. @prada – Collection, soundtrack and set conspired to create an ultra-memorable show by Miuccia Prada and co-creative director Raf Simons.
2. @undercover_lab – Undercover’s glowing, terrarium-style gowns, filled with flowers and live butterflies, made for a true fashion moment.
3. @maisonmargiela – John Galliano returned to the Paris ready-to-wear calendar with a theatrical, yet wearable outing.
4. @driesvannoten – These languid looks from Antwerp-based Dries Van Noten lingered in our editors’ memories.
5. @yproject_official – Glenn Marten’s favoured motifs like twisted jersey, ruched gowns and deconstructed denim were particularly striking this season.
6. @jw_anderson – Sculptural, intelligent, desirable: J.W. Anderson was the highlight of London Fashion Week.
7. Bottega Veneta – A collage of global references, including silhouettes, materials and craft techniques, were twisted and sublimated in Mathieu Blazy’s Milan show.
8. @rickowensonline – Rick Owens’ signature brand of post-apocalyptic chic was pushed to new heights of theatricality and reinvigorated by an infusion of colour.
9. @miumiu – Campus co-eds were the theme at Miu Miu again this season, backdropped by a cheeky art installation and punctuated by novel silhouettes including pleated and ruffled jacquard gowns in white and black.
10. @muglerofficial – They may not have a big budget, but they had the biggest fans: both the kind that sent veils flying through the air and the kind whose cheers amped up the energy at the memorable show by Casey Cadwallader.
#NYFW #LFW #MFW #PFW #SS24
