(2 Mar 2000) Eng/French/Nat
STORY: PARIS FASHION
LOCATION: PARIS
DATE: 2ND MARCH
STELLA McCARTNEY presented her usual take on the sexy, glamourous rock chick look Wednesday - watched by her father Paul McCartney in his usual front row seat , and SEAN LENNON, son of his former Beatle's pal John. Stella, last month voted glamour designer of the year at the British Fashion Awards, demonstrated just how adult glamour can be in her Autumn/Winter ready to wear collection.
While there was nothing to set fashion on its ear, the clothes, based vaguely on '70s and '80s ideas, looked fine for today. Sparkly, sequined, light mini-dresses with argyll or diamond patterns were topped with fake-fur maxi-coats. Colors were pleasantly toned down: light grays in diamond patterns for chiffon mini-dresses, boots and even brimmed hats. Low-slung trousers looked good with a slight flare. In contrast, some coats and jackets had sharp regimental military stripes. Beautiful art deco or fantasy beading on dressy tops for jeans looked fine for the generation that likes to mix dressy-casual
styles. Hand-cut sequin and feather effects dressed up a couple of coats.
McCartney's contract with Chloe finished this month and there is still no word on whether she will renew it. During her time there, she has increased sales five-fold, but has remained coy over her future plans. Her friendship with TOM FORD, head designer at Gucci and now designer director at Yves Saint Laurent led to speculation last year that she would be taking over from him at Gucci while he devoted his attention to YSL. Both parties have deined the rumours. McCartney is also reported to be unhappy over Chloe's decision to expand the range to include leather accessories. And McCartney never does leather.
However, Australian designer MARTIN GRANT definitely does leather. Leather that still walks that is - still sported by living, breathing dogs. It was pooches galore at Grant's show. The designer, who left Australia nine years ago, showed a collection which was functional but feminine. Last season, the star of his show was Naomi Campbell; this year it was Mutley the Dog.
The silhouette was sharp, geometric and structured but also elegant - designed to show off the curves of the body. For day and for evening, classics such as suits , jackets, men's frock coats, skirts and pants dominate - all inspired by sculptural tailoring. The designer, who boasts a clientele including Naomi Campbell and Cate Blanchett, is now stocked in London, New York and Japan. And, he continues to be a firm favourite of the ladies who regularly patronize his boutique since its opening three years ago.
How did a designer barely heard of in his own country attract such support? By starting early - he made his first dress aged seven and opened his first 'salon' in Melbourne aged 15. At 19 he won a prestigious design award - and then took four years off to study sculpture. In Paris he set up an atelier, soon developing a small clientele. His ready to wear collection flew off the rails, enabling to set up his own studio which provided the venue for his latest show.
JEAN PAUL GAULTIER, sent models down a cigarette butt strewn catwalk . The enfant terrible of Paris fashion knows how to made headlines - and is sure to provoke controversy by encouraging his models to smoke on the catwalk. It was a sharp, sexy collection. Smoking jackets were teamed with denim; leather with lace. Eighties inspirations are everywhere on the Paris catwalks, and none more so than at Gaultier. which saw a revival of the stirrup pant amongst others.
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