With cross or curly grain, set the cap iron close to the cutting edge and take fine shavings.

It's as easy as that, but it does take some practice. But this is true of anything worth learning. Woodworkers are often near obsessed with the "perfect" dovetail and will spend hundreds of pounds on tools and even training sessions, just to get it right.

I would wholeheartedly encourage you to take a moment to master a tool you likely already have and increase its versatility in the woodworking you do.

This advice only applies to bevel down planes with a cap iron. This broadly means anything that looks like a Stanley Bailey #3 to #8, Lie-Nielsen's versions along with Clifton and Veritas. There are other options too.

Make sure the mouth of the plane is open, I have the frog of my planes slid back so it is level with the casting. There is no need to close up the mouth. If you do choose to close the mouth of the plane you'll actually create problems.

A sharp cutting iron is important, this goes without saying! Set the cap iron close to the cutting edge. There is no sensible way of measuring this, it is done by feel and experience.

Take very light shavings. The shavings should be flat, not curly. If they curl, it is my experience that tearing of the grain will still happen. On the other hand you don't want to see shavings that look like mini accordions.

Then simply take light cuts and you should, with a little bit of effort, be able to take through shavings. The extra effort is worth noting. If the grain is mild and easy working, slide the cap iron back to its normal setting.

Happy experimenting!

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